The caravan of men and motorcars left Mongolia in the dead of winter and trudged on toward Peiping (Peking, China). Their chief and never-relenting enemy was the cold. "The fact that we arrived in Peiping without exceptional hardship is due to two factors - the relative mildness of the winter of 1931-32 and the help of the Christian missionaries. The latter not only guarded our supplies during a period of rebellion and requisition, but also enabled us to divide one long journey into several shorter ones, at the end of each of which we found physical and spiritual warmth and recreation," From the Mediterranean to the Yellow Sea by Motor: The Citroen-Haardt Expedition Successfully Completes Its Dramatic Journey," Maynard Owen Williams, Litt.D., National Geographic Magazine, November, 1932, p. 539.
How cold was it? "My notes covering this period were recorded by a pen which had to be thawed out after every few words by placing it in my mouth," (p. 543).
All enjoyed the many small towns they passed through on their way to the 200-feet tall sand dunes of the Yellow River. "We saw life through the eye of the calliope player, and in each tiny town our passing set an impromtu east day," (p. 543).
Mr. Williams took his camera everywhere and it always attracted attention. "Behind my camera curious children always trailed along as behind the piper of Hamelin (the Pied Piper?). With a stand camera, you are at the mercy of a mob. Offend them and you might as well go home. Inspire their good will and they'll warm your heart," (p. 544).
It seems like nearly in all places were lurking bandits or military from the Chinese Civil War. Beside the convoy patrolled "quiet, courageous men. . . keeping contact between the closely aligned cars and looking for ambush or trouble," (p. 553.) Of course, they came in contact with the region of the Great Wall of China repeatedly. "The score of parallel ruts beside the line of the Great Wall, here merely a succession of bulky towers, gave little evidence of recent use. Ages of traffic had worn them so deep that even a high-wheeled cart must continue in the track in which it starts," (p. 553).
Even though the group saw much destruction by the war, several places were untouched, among them a lamasery (home of Buddhist monks, called 'lamas'). "Sharamuren, Lama Colony, is Asia's Spotless Town. . . many whitewashed homes surround the temples, but most of the people live in felt yurts (round structures), of which each private courtyard has at least one," (photo caption, p. 558).
The troupe proceeded and one time, after driving for fifty-two hours non-stop, they were pleased to stop at a mission. "That day of rest at the Catholic Mission outside Liangchow is full of happy memories. In touch with the world again! I devoured one North China Star after another, the latest news only 20 days old!" (p. 560).
The expedition was now halfway in its journey to Peiping. This is a good place for us also to stop for the day.
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