Moon Over Jerusalem (Israel, Day 3, Wednesday, October 23, 2013)

What a beautiful sight: a full moon in a clear sky on a cool, crisp morning, from the patio of our room in the Olive Tree Hotel in Jerusalem, Israel.  We are actually here and ready to begin our Pilgrimage!

Following an early, sumptuous breakfast at the hotel, our group of 30 boards the tour bus with Anwar serving as the driver.  As our tour guide, Rami, tells us about himself and where we'll be going this morning, the 31 of us are quickly bonded with him.  Rami is a "Christian by religion, Israeli by nationality, and Arab by race."  He is very spiritual and extremely knowledgeable about the history and architecture of the region.  Once I asked him, "Were you a history major?"  He answered, "No.  I've just lived here all my life."  We will come to appreciate all the political nuances and sensibilities he offers.  The fact that he speaks 5 languages will be most useful at various times later.

Rami gives us basic information: Israel has a population of approximately 7.5 million;  5.5 million are Jewish, 2 million are Arabs and other groups with only 120,000 Christians.  Formerly 33% of the population, Christians now number 1.7%.  Jerusalem has three sections: in the west, the largest section, are Jews; in the east are the Palestinians, in the Old City, which is walled, are everyone, living together peacefully for the most part.  The Old City has existed for more than 3,000 years.  The City of Jerusalem is sacred for Islam, Christianity, and the Jews. We went 'up to Jerusalem' as it lies on Judean Hills.

View of the Old City in Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives.  The area has sparse plants and is extraordinarily rocky.

We notice construction in many places in the city: roads, buildings small and large.  By law, all buildings in Jerusalem must be constructed of white stone.  From a distance, the effect is beautiful! Rami tells us that U.S. dollars are welcome in Israel because of the inscription on the back, "In God we trust."  He emphasizes that in areas such as the Wailing Wall, no cameras are allowed, "and they check you."  Otherwise, we may take photos as we like.

Our group is given headsets to put on because when we are walking along the narrow by-ways, we need to hear our guide with the microphone at all times.  We are warned about pickpockets, present in all large cities in the world.  Rami will give us the code, "It's cloudy!" if we are in a crowded area where we need to hold tight our belongings.

Security in Jerusalem is evident but not overwhelming, with pairs of Israeli soldiers at many intersections.  They are vigilant, armed with machine guns, and appear to be very young.

We spend the morning on the Mount of Olives.  We quickly find out that tour buses can't go many places with the narrow streets.  So, we walk - and we climb!  We all feel a great sense of accomplishment when we get to the top of anything!  There is no rush, fortunately.  We are a diverse group ranging in age from 15 to close to 90; there are seven married couples, single folks, and three priests; one gentleman pushes a walker.  We all help each other when the need arises.

Church of the Ascension, Jerusalem.

 Our first stop is the small, round Church of the Ascension.  There is a rock indicating the exact place where Jesus left the earth to be with His Father in heaven.  Rami explains that many of the sacred Christian places have indisputable evidence, from the time of the apostles, that the sites are exactly where an event took place.  Other sites are traditionally thought to be sacred sites.  He will distinguish these sites as we go along, day by day.

Pilgrims touch the sacred rock where Jesus ascended.  Theresa is next in line.

Next stop: the Church of Pater Noster, where Jesus taught the disciples how to pray, the familiar "Our Father."

Spacious courtyard of Pater Noster Church.  On the inner walls are large mosaics of the "Our Father" prayer in dozens of languages.

Several of the "Our Father" mosaics.

The actual place where Jesus taught his disciples - and us all - how to pray.  This sacred site and most others are one, two, or three levels below the church built to commemorate the event.  All have been excavated to some extent.

As we walk from Pater Noster Church to our next stop, we pass the Jewish Cemetery, where are buried thousands of people for thousands of years.  It is the largest cemetery in the Middle East.

Directly across from the Mount of Olives is the Al-Aqsa Mosque, the third holiest site to the Muslims.  It is built on the site of the destroyed Jewish Temple, within the walls of the Old City, and will hold up to 400,000 people praying.

Father Jeff presides at a private Mass with Father Gilbert (at left) and Father Richard (on the right, our own priest!) concelebrating, on the Mount of Olives.  Daily Mass is a particular treat for all us Catholics.

The Garden of Gethsemane is large, fairly flat, and cool in the shade. All small plants are irrigated. The trees have many olives, some ripe, some small and ripening, both green and black olive trees.

Rami praised the Franciscans for maintaining the Holy Sites throughout many centuries.

Our group was pleased to travel by bus to the Old City.  This is the end of the Temple, the 'Parapet,' where Jesus permitted the devil to tempt Him to jump off and allow angels to catch Him.  It is 90 feet tall!

We enter the Old City through one of the seven gates: their names are Jaffa, Zion, Dung, Lions', Herod's, Damascus, and New.  We saw most of them many times in our trips around Jerusalem. 

No two churches resemble any other except that all have altars.  We visit Mary Magdalene Church, the Resurrection Church, the Church of Dominus Flevit, where Jesus wept over Jerusalem, and the Upper Room.  We didn't spend a lot of time at each church, but we never felt rushed. Some of the churches had gift shops.  Most accepted contributions but none charged to be entered.

In the Courtyard where Jesus was condemned to death, Peter is depicted as denying he knew Jesus three times.  The cock which then crowed three times is on top of the column.  This is in Pilate's palace.

Looking down these steps gave me chills.  After Jesus was cruelly scourged, Barabas is released to the jeering crowd.  Then Pilate washes his hands of 'guilt' and Jesus is condemned to crucifixion.  Across from this palace is the Mount of Olives.

Particularly meaningful was walking the Via Dolorosa, the Way of the Cross.  We all took turns, four at a time, carrying the cross.  At each of the fourteen stations is a plaque or a church commemorating the event.  This photo shows the fifth station, where Simon of Cyrene is pressed into service to help Jesus carry the cross.

The Old City streets are extremely narrow and steep, crowded with merchants and their wares, and with people, now as back in Jesus' time.  How could Jesus breathe for all the crowds!  Our real education occurred here.  We will never forget!

Mosaic over the altar in the Church of the Dormition of Mary.  Where you find Mary, the Blessed Mother, you always find Jesus.

Statue depicting Mary's death, then the Assumption of her body into heaven.  This is in the lower crypt of the Church of the Dormition of Mary.

Angels guard the Tomb of Jesus, where he resurrected from the dead.  We were permitted to touch or kiss the very place this happened.

Rami told us of the work of St. Helen, Emperor Constantine's mother, in finding the true cross of Jesus, and building churches in Jerusalem so all could remember the events of Jesus' life.

Two spirited street musicians entertain us, at Rami's suggestion.  The sun is setting over Jerusalem and we are making our way back to the bus back to the hotel.

 Those of my friends who have visited the Holy Land told me, "It will change your life.  You will never be the same."  On this Mount of Olives, I understood what they meant.  To be able to walk where Jesus walked, see the Old City on the opposite hill, I imagined what Jesus saw: the magnificent Temple in all its glory.  Yet he also knew what would happen on Calvary.  Even in October, I felt the heat and dryness of this area that Jesus felt.  At times, it was almost overwhelming.  It was a deeply spiritual experience. I concluded that even only one day in this Holy Place was worth all the travel, work and fatigue of climbing and walking, not to mention the cost in cash. I wish that each and every Christian could experience this Pilgrimage at one time in their lives!