Think out-of-date bed-and-breakfasts are a thing of the past? Not in the British Isles! "The old inn is a very living factor indeed in the scheme of modern existence. Attracted by its ineffable charm, thousands habitually resort thither for lodging or refreshments, and most innkeepers are fully aware of the substantial advantage they derive by preserving in their premises all the essentials of ancient character" (p. 261, "Visits to the Old Inns of England: Historic Homes of Hospitality for the Wayfarer Dot the Length and Breadth of the Kingdom," National Geographic Magazine, March, 1931, author: Harold Donaldson Eberlein).
Mr. Eberlein also recommends "the taverns and roadside alehouses. These have a set of characteristics and usages all their own. . .Time and again you will chance upon a bit of history or romance and find the local associations with some famous personage proudly treasured by the countryfolk" (p. 262). For sure, England is overflowing with history. The British savor and preserve every person, battle, castle, costume, and accounts of them all.
I personally love all the names of the English towns, duplicates of which many are found in our states - Ludlow, Norfolk, Paradise, Portsmouth, Worcester, London, and on and on. Some of the English inns have been in business more than 500 years. "Should you chance to visit Saffron Walden and put up at the Rose and Crown, you will be reminded that, almost beyond doubt, Shakespeare stayed here when he visited the town with his company of players in 1607" (p. 268).
The town of Shrewsbury was mentioned. Daughter #7, Marie, and I visited there on our visit to Great Britain in November of 2008. The occasion was Remembrance Day, November 11, to attend the service for my nephew, Justin, formerly in the United States Navy, then a member of the Irish Regiment of the Royal British Army, killed in Afghanistan September 4th. Remembrance Day is very big in the British Isles! Everyone in their country wears red poppies in remembrance of all of their serrvicemen and women who gave their lives for their country.
After being tourists in London for several days, Marie and I took the train to Shrewsbury. There we were met by a Royal British Army Sergeant who kindly drove us to Rosehill Manor Hotel, near the town of Tern Hill. After Marie and I freshened up, he took us to the guest house in the Tern Hill Army installation to visit with my brother Don, sister-in-law, Kathleen, Justin's widow, Velma, Velma's parents from Lithuania, and other relatives. Although we were very sad about Justin, it was wonderful to see each other.
Marie and I spent a lovely night at Rosehill Manor. We were the only guests and felt very pampered. It was very quiet. Marie had never seen a shower with water heated at the source. The inn was large and had an echo. The next morning at breakfast, the owner asked us, "What do you want to eat?" We had expected to perhaps see a menu and make a choice but we could order anything. I would like to stay there again, in warmer weather, and take advantage of their patio and the outside view.
The food in England is outstanding! Mr. Eberlein notes, "Is it any wonder that some of one's forbears had the gout?" (p. 282). I could get used to tea time every day!
"One might go on indefinitely telling of the old inns of England, dwelling on their associations, and describing their numberless allurements. The variety they afford is practically endless. The only sameness they all share is in the spell they exert, once you come in sight of them or cross their thresholds" (p. 285). I couldn't agree more!
Please see this blog, Friday, August 9, 2013, "Now to London," for more about our trip and several of our photos. Rosehill Manor may be viewed at www.rosehillmanorhotel.co.uk.
Saturday, November 30, 2013
Friday, November 29, 2013
My First Safari: Cameroun
"It is a gorgeous country. My wife and I traveled continuously there for nearly half a year, and I know no better way to describe it than as and how we saw it" (p. 225, "The Mandate of Cameroun.: A Vast African Territory Ruled by Petty Sultans Under French Sway," National Geographic Magazine, February, 1931, by John W. Vandercook). The author has already interested us in this country!
Cameroun, in Mr. Vandercook's words, "is a vast territory that lies at the inner corner of the Gulf of guinea, just where West Africa becomes Equatorial Africa. It touches the sea for a distance of about 125 miles, and then fans out gigantically to reach the Sahara to the north, the Oubangui River to the east, and Gabon colony at its lower boundary" (p. 225).
Douala is the largest city in Cameroun. It "will never be proud of its climate. In the dry season it is hot, breathless beyond belief" (p. 227).
Mr. & Mrs. Vandercook travel north by train through the great equatorial forest. "Occasionally the forest breaks and the train passes plantations of tobacco, banana, palm oil, and cacao" (p. 229).
An ever-present danger was the presence of mosquitoes (carriers of malaria and yellow-fever), and the tsetse fly (carrier of sleeping sickness). One time two years ago in my nursing career, I cared for a patient who declined the medicine to prevent malaria and came back from Africa with malaria. She needed an unprecidented three dialysis treatments in one day. It was the only time our nephrologists stayed with the patient during the entire treatment. In 1931, huge nets around beds at night was the only prevention for this terrible disease.
The train climbed higher and reached Nkongsamba, then the pair of travelers used a car on the plateau. "Dominating the mood of the view is that sense of utter solitude one feels so powerfully in central Africa, of timelessness and emptiness" (p. 237).
Foumban is the next city of the road north. Njoya is the sultan. He has no standing army, but all subchiefs "and their male relatives ride and bear arms. . .He could assemble 200 mounted soldiers very quickly" (p. 239). Njoya has a harem of 200 wives.
Mr. Vandercook approved of Foumban: "one has an immediate impression of order, prosperity, civilization" (p. 240). Sultan Njoya keeps a museum with "carving, bronzes, spears, beadwork, brass jewelry, embroideries, and textile. . .because he admires them and because he takes pride in every tradition of his people" (p. 246).
Continuing the journey, "Beyond Foumban, if one wants to go beyond, there is but one way of traveling - on foot. . .Everything, of course, with the single exception of food, must be carried" (p. 246). "The path, a beaten dirt track from a foot to six feet wide, is clear and has no rivals and no forks" (p. 247).
On the trail the author enjoyed lowland groves with birds and butterflies, and long-tailed monkeys. "Now and then. . .the caravan meets a cattle herder, accompanied by anywhere from a dozen to 5,000 herd of the long-horned zebu" (p. 251).
"In only one particular is the plateau disappointing - in the scarcity, except for the zebu, of visible game. Animals are there, but one doesn't unless extraordinarily fortunate, see them. Every early morning the path is muddied with the treads of lions, leopards, hyenas, and sometimes great anubis baboons, but they have vanished witrh the coming of day . . . in the six-foot grass" (p. 251).
When fordiing streams, everyone had to look out for crocodiles. Agricultural methods were crude and primitive. The author noticed that the few automobiles and roads seemed to have no effect at all on the natives. The country was ruled by the French. With the presence of the Sultans, I'm not sure what the French rulers did. North to this country was a smaller "German Cameroun."
Mr. Vandercook felt like Cameroun had vast potential: "Sooner or later, the plateau will be a market garden of the world" (p. 259). He was saddened by the poor health of the people: "The vast majority of them are sick. Yaws, malaria, rickets, elephantiasis, or dengue, is in the blood of nearly every one, and, above all, sleeping sickness" (p. 260).
Yet hospitals were making impressive iinroads into combatting the diseases. Mr. Vandercook holds great hope, "The resources are there and the world wills that they be developed. No colony on the West AFrican coast has more varied possibilities. It is logical to think that what is now so little known will become eventually commonplace" (p. 260).
(My first safari!)
Cameroun, in Mr. Vandercook's words, "is a vast territory that lies at the inner corner of the Gulf of guinea, just where West Africa becomes Equatorial Africa. It touches the sea for a distance of about 125 miles, and then fans out gigantically to reach the Sahara to the north, the Oubangui River to the east, and Gabon colony at its lower boundary" (p. 225).
Douala is the largest city in Cameroun. It "will never be proud of its climate. In the dry season it is hot, breathless beyond belief" (p. 227).
Mr. & Mrs. Vandercook travel north by train through the great equatorial forest. "Occasionally the forest breaks and the train passes plantations of tobacco, banana, palm oil, and cacao" (p. 229).
An ever-present danger was the presence of mosquitoes (carriers of malaria and yellow-fever), and the tsetse fly (carrier of sleeping sickness). One time two years ago in my nursing career, I cared for a patient who declined the medicine to prevent malaria and came back from Africa with malaria. She needed an unprecidented three dialysis treatments in one day. It was the only time our nephrologists stayed with the patient during the entire treatment. In 1931, huge nets around beds at night was the only prevention for this terrible disease.
The train climbed higher and reached Nkongsamba, then the pair of travelers used a car on the plateau. "Dominating the mood of the view is that sense of utter solitude one feels so powerfully in central Africa, of timelessness and emptiness" (p. 237).
Foumban is the next city of the road north. Njoya is the sultan. He has no standing army, but all subchiefs "and their male relatives ride and bear arms. . .He could assemble 200 mounted soldiers very quickly" (p. 239). Njoya has a harem of 200 wives.
Mr. Vandercook approved of Foumban: "one has an immediate impression of order, prosperity, civilization" (p. 240). Sultan Njoya keeps a museum with "carving, bronzes, spears, beadwork, brass jewelry, embroideries, and textile. . .because he admires them and because he takes pride in every tradition of his people" (p. 246).
Continuing the journey, "Beyond Foumban, if one wants to go beyond, there is but one way of traveling - on foot. . .Everything, of course, with the single exception of food, must be carried" (p. 246). "The path, a beaten dirt track from a foot to six feet wide, is clear and has no rivals and no forks" (p. 247).
On the trail the author enjoyed lowland groves with birds and butterflies, and long-tailed monkeys. "Now and then. . .the caravan meets a cattle herder, accompanied by anywhere from a dozen to 5,000 herd of the long-horned zebu" (p. 251).
"In only one particular is the plateau disappointing - in the scarcity, except for the zebu, of visible game. Animals are there, but one doesn't unless extraordinarily fortunate, see them. Every early morning the path is muddied with the treads of lions, leopards, hyenas, and sometimes great anubis baboons, but they have vanished witrh the coming of day . . . in the six-foot grass" (p. 251).
When fordiing streams, everyone had to look out for crocodiles. Agricultural methods were crude and primitive. The author noticed that the few automobiles and roads seemed to have no effect at all on the natives. The country was ruled by the French. With the presence of the Sultans, I'm not sure what the French rulers did. North to this country was a smaller "German Cameroun."
Mr. Vandercook felt like Cameroun had vast potential: "Sooner or later, the plateau will be a market garden of the world" (p. 259). He was saddened by the poor health of the people: "The vast majority of them are sick. Yaws, malaria, rickets, elephantiasis, or dengue, is in the blood of nearly every one, and, above all, sleeping sickness" (p. 260).
Yet hospitals were making impressive iinroads into combatting the diseases. Mr. Vandercook holds great hope, "The resources are there and the world wills that they be developed. No colony on the West AFrican coast has more varied possibilities. It is logical to think that what is now so little known will become eventually commonplace" (p. 260).
(My first safari!)
Thursday, November 28, 2013
A Sailing Ship Journey
Today we have the opportunity to compare sailing around The Two major Capes in the world: The Cape of Good Hope, around the southern tip of the African continent, and Cape Horn, around the South American continent's southernmost areas. In the November, 1927, National Geographic Magazine article, we joined Vasco da Gama in 1497 on a trip from Portugal sailing around the Cape of Good Hope to India (please see this blog, Monday, July 1, 2013, "Another Faraway Adventure Begins!").
Mr. A.J. Villiers writes of his sailing adventures in "Rounding the Horn in a Windjammer," National Geographic Magazine, February, 1931. The author first establishes that there is only a rare necessity of a boat needing to use the route around Cape Horn. Usually the Panama Canal can be used or, "In the unusual event of a steamer passing to the south of the American Continent - say, on passage from Buenos Aires to Tacahuan - nine times out of ten she will use the Magellan passage" (p. 191). This is an alternate route through the southern islands of South America from Atlantic Ocean to Pacific Ocean.
Villiers actually made two trips around Cape Horn in sailing ships. The first trip was made on the sailing ship, Herzogin Ceirlie. The author conceived the idea of sailing the same route in a sailing ship with a film crew. Together with his friend, a reporter-photographer, the author signed on the full-rigged ship, Grace Harwar, as sailors. No one knew their intentions to film the journey.
Grace Harwar was a Finnish three-master, laden with wheat, that sailed from Wallaroo, Australia, "across the South Pacific around Cape Horn, and across the Atlantic, finally reaching her destination in the British Isles in 138 days - days of tragedy and indescribable suffering" (p. 192). Let's see what this entailed!
The ship carried a crew of 19 sailors, one dog, and one pig. The majority of the sailors were Finns with an average age of 19 years. Most of the few sailing ships in 1931 "are great cargo-carrying steel wagons, wall-sided and heavy-lined, with bluff bows (the forward part) and heavy sterns (the rear end), oversparred (a heavy wooden piece of a mast) and undermanned. . .They run on the borderline, with crews of inexperienced boys; their gear is old; sometimes their plate leaks a little, here and there, and they are badly off for sails" (p. 196).
There were many other shortcomings listed. It concluded with, "Real sailors are scarce; in any case, they will not go in sailing ships!! (p. 196). Yet Mr. Villiers embarked! - Twice!!
"Like neophytes in some fraternity initiation, those who sail over "the Line" (the Equator) for the first time must perform certain rites. The custom is known on ships of all flags. After the ceremony and horseplay, the initiates are dunked in a tank of water" (photo caption, p. 215).
"In bad weather, off Cape Horn, the ship sprung a leak." The water had to be pumped out. "On steamers, machines do this work; on windjammers sailors must either pump or sink" (p. 207).
Before reaching the Cape, the storms were fierce and unrelenting. In the dark preceding daybreak, his friend and another man climbed the sails up to nearly the top to fix one. In the process, a spar fell and killed his friend. The crew thought he was unconscious and had a difficult time lowering him to the deck. When he reached the deck, the captain knew, "He's dead." The next day, he was buried at sea. This had a near-disastrous effect on the rest of the men. There was no communication with nor sight of any ship for several months. His parents in Australia didn't know of his death for three months, till the Grace Harwar reached the British Isles.
After passing around Cape Horn, the crew's food supply was dwindling. They finally killed the pig on board only to find it was diseased and couldn't be eaten. Finally, several weeks later, they spotted a steamer, rowed over to it, and were given a good supply of food which lasted the rest of their trip.
Villiers summarized the trip: April 17, 1929 to September 3: "In the interval one of us was killed; a second one went out of his mind; a third went overboard. We were short of food. . .We tried to make for Cape Town in distress but could not. We saw black albatrosses and endured indescribable suffering off the Horn in the dead of winter" (p. 205).
My conclusion: the experienced sailors who wouldn't sail on a sailing ship (using only sails for power) were smart!
Mr. A.J. Villiers writes of his sailing adventures in "Rounding the Horn in a Windjammer," National Geographic Magazine, February, 1931. The author first establishes that there is only a rare necessity of a boat needing to use the route around Cape Horn. Usually the Panama Canal can be used or, "In the unusual event of a steamer passing to the south of the American Continent - say, on passage from Buenos Aires to Tacahuan - nine times out of ten she will use the Magellan passage" (p. 191). This is an alternate route through the southern islands of South America from Atlantic Ocean to Pacific Ocean.
Villiers actually made two trips around Cape Horn in sailing ships. The first trip was made on the sailing ship, Herzogin Ceirlie. The author conceived the idea of sailing the same route in a sailing ship with a film crew. Together with his friend, a reporter-photographer, the author signed on the full-rigged ship, Grace Harwar, as sailors. No one knew their intentions to film the journey.
Grace Harwar was a Finnish three-master, laden with wheat, that sailed from Wallaroo, Australia, "across the South Pacific around Cape Horn, and across the Atlantic, finally reaching her destination in the British Isles in 138 days - days of tragedy and indescribable suffering" (p. 192). Let's see what this entailed!
The ship carried a crew of 19 sailors, one dog, and one pig. The majority of the sailors were Finns with an average age of 19 years. Most of the few sailing ships in 1931 "are great cargo-carrying steel wagons, wall-sided and heavy-lined, with bluff bows (the forward part) and heavy sterns (the rear end), oversparred (a heavy wooden piece of a mast) and undermanned. . .They run on the borderline, with crews of inexperienced boys; their gear is old; sometimes their plate leaks a little, here and there, and they are badly off for sails" (p. 196).
There were many other shortcomings listed. It concluded with, "Real sailors are scarce; in any case, they will not go in sailing ships!! (p. 196). Yet Mr. Villiers embarked! - Twice!!
"Like neophytes in some fraternity initiation, those who sail over "the Line" (the Equator) for the first time must perform certain rites. The custom is known on ships of all flags. After the ceremony and horseplay, the initiates are dunked in a tank of water" (photo caption, p. 215).
"In bad weather, off Cape Horn, the ship sprung a leak." The water had to be pumped out. "On steamers, machines do this work; on windjammers sailors must either pump or sink" (p. 207).
Before reaching the Cape, the storms were fierce and unrelenting. In the dark preceding daybreak, his friend and another man climbed the sails up to nearly the top to fix one. In the process, a spar fell and killed his friend. The crew thought he was unconscious and had a difficult time lowering him to the deck. When he reached the deck, the captain knew, "He's dead." The next day, he was buried at sea. This had a near-disastrous effect on the rest of the men. There was no communication with nor sight of any ship for several months. His parents in Australia didn't know of his death for three months, till the Grace Harwar reached the British Isles.
After passing around Cape Horn, the crew's food supply was dwindling. They finally killed the pig on board only to find it was diseased and couldn't be eaten. Finally, several weeks later, they spotted a steamer, rowed over to it, and were given a good supply of food which lasted the rest of their trip.
Villiers summarized the trip: April 17, 1929 to September 3: "In the interval one of us was killed; a second one went out of his mind; a third went overboard. We were short of food. . .We tried to make for Cape Town in distress but could not. We saw black albatrosses and endured indescribable suffering off the Horn in the dead of winter" (p. 205).
My conclusion: the experienced sailors who wouldn't sail on a sailing ship (using only sails for power) were smart!
Wednesday, November 27, 2013
King Zog's Country
Progressing in National Geographic Magazines to February, 1931, the next article is "Europe's Newest Kingdom: After Centuries of Struggle, Albania at Last Enjoys an Era of Peace and Stability" by Melville Chater. He began this trip planning on traveling by horseback, but quickly discovered that following the World War, "Albania leaped from Medievalism to Modernism, from horses to horsepower, in a decade" (p. 131) with a system of 700 miles of government roads.
Albania has a long coast on the Adriatic Sea, west of Italy. It shares its southeast border with Greece, and northeast border with Yugoslavia. It is a mountainous country yet has areas of wide, fertile plains. In 1931 it would be considered a small country with 17,000 square miles, "not as large as the U.S. States of New Hampshire and Vermont together" (p. 139) and 830,000 citizens. More than two-thirds are Mohammedans while the balance adheres to the Greek Orthodox and the Roman Catholic communions" (p. 142).
There are the ever-present ruins of ancient countries, the hillside fortresses from Roman, Byzantine, Norman, and Turkish invaders. Natives still wore their traditional costumes in 1931, and the men's "fustanellas," or pleated kilts, looked nearly identical to those of their neighbors to the south, Greece.
One night, the author and his Albanian chauffeur/translator, Pete, stayed overnight in a Muslim monastery. They felt very welcome, and "Next morning we found that no remuneration was expected. Hospitality and tolerance center the Bektashites' code of simple pieties. "It is evil to be full when others are empty" runs one of their sayings" (p. 151).
In one of their encounters, the pair met a workman who told them he had just been released from six years in jail "for being rude." When the author was incredulous, the man explained, "Yes, for being rude with a knife. And, now that I'm out, his widow's brother wants to get rude with me!" (p. 151).
On another occasion, the two were stopped in the road by a youth demanding transport in their car to a town four hours away. The youth touted, "I'm the son of a bey (military leader)." Pete, the chauffeur, laughed, stomped on the gas and left, shouting something in Albanian which, translated, said, "I just told that fresh guy how you are the son of President of U.S.A.!" Thus, the author was introduced to the "social caste, privileged and powerful, which has survived the centuries of Turkish rule" (p. 151).
The capital city, "Tivana, reveals a picture of Albania Westernizing herself. Broad, electric-lit streets neighbor fascinatingly hodgepodege bazaar alleys. A line of brand-new taxis, a row of pack mules, and a string of modern lorries throng the same square" (p. 159). In 1928 the republic became a monarchy, with King Zog the leader. If there were mineral or oil resources in Albania in 1931, they were not explored. "Albanian manufactures are almost exclusively homemade and for home consumption" (photo caption, p. 167). On the farms are olive and fruit tree groves, sheep and cattle, and pine forests.
In 1931, women's political rights were a big item in America. "For centuries the Albanian woman has enjoyed by immemorial custom a legal status such as Western womanhood has battled for in modern times" (photo caption, p. 169).
Albania is the first country I've read of that endeavored to preserve its distinctive classic native costumes by "making them the correct dress at official functions" (p. 172).
Mr. Chater mentioned that years before, his chauffeur, Pete, had lived in Kentucky, U.S.A., my home state. At journey's end, "Pete gave us the cheek-to-cheek greeting as tenderly as a woman, then turned his face to the wall - our good old ever-grinning Gunga Din - and fairly sobbed his heart out; and thereat we Americans knew that he discerned in us some vague tie with his happy, hash-slinging past in old Kentucky" (p. 183). And thus the wandering through Albania ended.
Albania has a long coast on the Adriatic Sea, west of Italy. It shares its southeast border with Greece, and northeast border with Yugoslavia. It is a mountainous country yet has areas of wide, fertile plains. In 1931 it would be considered a small country with 17,000 square miles, "not as large as the U.S. States of New Hampshire and Vermont together" (p. 139) and 830,000 citizens. More than two-thirds are Mohammedans while the balance adheres to the Greek Orthodox and the Roman Catholic communions" (p. 142).
There are the ever-present ruins of ancient countries, the hillside fortresses from Roman, Byzantine, Norman, and Turkish invaders. Natives still wore their traditional costumes in 1931, and the men's "fustanellas," or pleated kilts, looked nearly identical to those of their neighbors to the south, Greece.
One night, the author and his Albanian chauffeur/translator, Pete, stayed overnight in a Muslim monastery. They felt very welcome, and "Next morning we found that no remuneration was expected. Hospitality and tolerance center the Bektashites' code of simple pieties. "It is evil to be full when others are empty" runs one of their sayings" (p. 151).
In one of their encounters, the pair met a workman who told them he had just been released from six years in jail "for being rude." When the author was incredulous, the man explained, "Yes, for being rude with a knife. And, now that I'm out, his widow's brother wants to get rude with me!" (p. 151).
On another occasion, the two were stopped in the road by a youth demanding transport in their car to a town four hours away. The youth touted, "I'm the son of a bey (military leader)." Pete, the chauffeur, laughed, stomped on the gas and left, shouting something in Albanian which, translated, said, "I just told that fresh guy how you are the son of President of U.S.A.!" Thus, the author was introduced to the "social caste, privileged and powerful, which has survived the centuries of Turkish rule" (p. 151).
The capital city, "Tivana, reveals a picture of Albania Westernizing herself. Broad, electric-lit streets neighbor fascinatingly hodgepodege bazaar alleys. A line of brand-new taxis, a row of pack mules, and a string of modern lorries throng the same square" (p. 159). In 1928 the republic became a monarchy, with King Zog the leader. If there were mineral or oil resources in Albania in 1931, they were not explored. "Albanian manufactures are almost exclusively homemade and for home consumption" (photo caption, p. 167). On the farms are olive and fruit tree groves, sheep and cattle, and pine forests.
In 1931, women's political rights were a big item in America. "For centuries the Albanian woman has enjoyed by immemorial custom a legal status such as Western womanhood has battled for in modern times" (photo caption, p. 169).
Albania is the first country I've read of that endeavored to preserve its distinctive classic native costumes by "making them the correct dress at official functions" (p. 172).
Mr. Chater mentioned that years before, his chauffeur, Pete, had lived in Kentucky, U.S.A., my home state. At journey's end, "Pete gave us the cheek-to-cheek greeting as tenderly as a woman, then turned his face to the wall - our good old ever-grinning Gunga Din - and fairly sobbed his heart out; and thereat we Americans knew that he discerned in us some vague tie with his happy, hash-slinging past in old Kentucky" (p. 183). And thus the wandering through Albania ended.
Tuesday, November 26, 2013
Playing Catch-Up: Spain!
It was bound to happen in my transitioning between my oldest issues of National Geographic Magazine to the DVD for my missing issues: I skipped ahead to 1931 before finishing 1930. Sorry! Frankly, though, I can't see that, from the perspective of 83 years ago, we have lost a thing!
The next article in order is "Pursuing Spanish Bypaths Northwest of Madrid" by Harry A. McBride, in the January, 1931, issue. FYI: Madrid is near the center of Spain.
Immediately preceding the article is an eight-page section of color photos which are so beautiful they all look like paintings or tapestries. First there is the intricately-carved stone front of the Royal Hospital at Santiago, completed in 1510 by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella (p. 113). Santiago's Cathedral was built in the 13th century and contains the bones of the Apostle, St. James the Greater (p. 114). The last page shows farming equipment so primitive the plow and cart are wooden. The author mentions that these old implements are gradually disappearing in the large areas but are still in use in many of the country areas (p. 120).
To see the road to the Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, rent the DVD, "The Way," an interesting story starring Martin Sheene and his son. You will be amazed both by the story and the church's architecture.
"The most interesting feature of Segovia is the old Roman aqueduct, dating from the time of Augustus. This structure, built of solid square blocks of granite, green with age, simply set together without cement or mortar, is 900 yards long and consists of 119 arches, some of them nearly 100 feet in height. Perched on the top for about one-third of the length is a second tier of arches. The whole structure is a stupendous reminder of the excellence of Roman engineering" (p. 121). I have seen so many photos of parts of these Roman aqueducts, and seen parts in Rome, I find it fascinating that they have survived two millennia! Which of our modern buildings will survive two millennia?
Mr. McBride's next stop was the town of Avila, appearing "largely as the Middle Ages left her" (p. 123), surrounded by walls and battle towers built in 1090. The author journeyed northwest through the mountains and ended on the coastal town of Santiago de Compostela, wherein is the famous cathedral, begun in 1074, "in many ways the most interesting of French or Spanish Romanesque buildings. The western facade was built some seven centuries later" (p. 127).
His trip concluded with remarks that the forests in Spain were fast disappearing. And he passed into Portugal. . .
The next article in order is "Pursuing Spanish Bypaths Northwest of Madrid" by Harry A. McBride, in the January, 1931, issue. FYI: Madrid is near the center of Spain.
Immediately preceding the article is an eight-page section of color photos which are so beautiful they all look like paintings or tapestries. First there is the intricately-carved stone front of the Royal Hospital at Santiago, completed in 1510 by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella (p. 113). Santiago's Cathedral was built in the 13th century and contains the bones of the Apostle, St. James the Greater (p. 114). The last page shows farming equipment so primitive the plow and cart are wooden. The author mentions that these old implements are gradually disappearing in the large areas but are still in use in many of the country areas (p. 120).
To see the road to the Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, rent the DVD, "The Way," an interesting story starring Martin Sheene and his son. You will be amazed both by the story and the church's architecture.
"The most interesting feature of Segovia is the old Roman aqueduct, dating from the time of Augustus. This structure, built of solid square blocks of granite, green with age, simply set together without cement or mortar, is 900 yards long and consists of 119 arches, some of them nearly 100 feet in height. Perched on the top for about one-third of the length is a second tier of arches. The whole structure is a stupendous reminder of the excellence of Roman engineering" (p. 121). I have seen so many photos of parts of these Roman aqueducts, and seen parts in Rome, I find it fascinating that they have survived two millennia! Which of our modern buildings will survive two millennia?
 | ||
| The wall of the Old City of Rome resembles the aqueduct in other parts of the city. October 2013. |
Also in Segovia is their new cathedral - built in 1522. Another 'attraction' is Alcazar, a castle built in the 11th century with "turrets, battlements, and towers" (p. 122).
 |
| This villa in St. Augustine, Florida, was modeled on another Spanish castle, Alhambra. |
His trip concluded with remarks that the forests in Spain were fast disappearing. And he passed into Portugal. . .
Monday, November 25, 2013
How Big is Brazil?
Since reporting in this blog on the stories in my oldest copy of the National Geographic Magazine, November, 1927, I've come a long way, to December, 1930. I've read several accounts by author, Frederick Simpich, and will enjoy a trip back to Brazil, South America, in "Gigantic Brazil and its Glittering Capital."
Simpich gives us an idea of exactly how vast is the country called Brazil: It was, in 1930, third in the world in land area, after the Soviet Union and China. Brazil is larger than the continental United States of America by more than 200,000 square miles and contains 3,200,000 square miles, nearly half the land in South America. Its land area is 65 times the land area of England. This country on the east coast of South America has a coastline of 3,700 miles, twice the distance from Portland, Maine, to Key West, Florida.
"Amid all Brazil's amazing coastal panorama of prismatic forests, mysterious rivers, foaming cascades, untrod mountains, and polyglot, populous coastal towns, Rio (de Janeiro) remains the very acme of human interest and beauty," (p. 729) Mr. Simpich relates.
He was told, "Rio likes Americans because we have a similarity of ideals and because we share your sense of numor. We even translate and print your jokes!. . .Nowhere, from the Rio Grande to Cape Horn, is the visitor from the United States more welcome than in Rio" (p. 749).
Although there was no prohibition of alcohol in Brazil in 1930, as there was in the United States of America, Brazilians preferred coffee as their national drink. They were great coffee producers, liked their coffee strong, and drank it regularly in many sidewalk cafes. Between the months of August and January, in particular, the streets and warehouses of Sao Paulo's seaport terminal, Santos, throb to one idea - coffee" (photo caption, p. 759).
Most Brazilians spoke Portugese but did trade in at least five other languages. After the Republic was formed, there was a large influx of immigrants, especially from Italy and Germany.
The Republic of the United States of Brazil was formed in 1889 after their independence from Portugal was won in 1822. In 1930, the Republic was still new and Rio de Janeiro was a capital city newly renovated only the the past twenty years. "Scenically, architecturally, it startles us with its theatrical character. From my hotel roof, Rio's skyline resembled a string of fantastic palaces at some world's fair. I could look down on a seaside boulevard that ran from the dignified American Embassy, around moon-shaped bay fronts, to a race course with clubhouses like ancient temples in Egypt. Paris, New York, San Francisco all blend here" (p. 772).
Simpich gives us an idea of exactly how vast is the country called Brazil: It was, in 1930, third in the world in land area, after the Soviet Union and China. Brazil is larger than the continental United States of America by more than 200,000 square miles and contains 3,200,000 square miles, nearly half the land in South America. Its land area is 65 times the land area of England. This country on the east coast of South America has a coastline of 3,700 miles, twice the distance from Portland, Maine, to Key West, Florida.
"Amid all Brazil's amazing coastal panorama of prismatic forests, mysterious rivers, foaming cascades, untrod mountains, and polyglot, populous coastal towns, Rio (de Janeiro) remains the very acme of human interest and beauty," (p. 729) Mr. Simpich relates.
He was told, "Rio likes Americans because we have a similarity of ideals and because we share your sense of numor. We even translate and print your jokes!. . .Nowhere, from the Rio Grande to Cape Horn, is the visitor from the United States more welcome than in Rio" (p. 749).
Although there was no prohibition of alcohol in Brazil in 1930, as there was in the United States of America, Brazilians preferred coffee as their national drink. They were great coffee producers, liked their coffee strong, and drank it regularly in many sidewalk cafes. Between the months of August and January, in particular, the streets and warehouses of Sao Paulo's seaport terminal, Santos, throb to one idea - coffee" (photo caption, p. 759).
Most Brazilians spoke Portugese but did trade in at least five other languages. After the Republic was formed, there was a large influx of immigrants, especially from Italy and Germany.
The Republic of the United States of Brazil was formed in 1889 after their independence from Portugal was won in 1822. In 1930, the Republic was still new and Rio de Janeiro was a capital city newly renovated only the the past twenty years. "Scenically, architecturally, it startles us with its theatrical character. From my hotel roof, Rio's skyline resembled a string of fantastic palaces at some world's fair. I could look down on a seaside boulevard that ran from the dignified American Embassy, around moon-shaped bay fronts, to a race course with clubhouses like ancient temples in Egypt. Paris, New York, San Francisco all blend here" (p. 772).
Sunday, November 24, 2013
Church Hop
Before my teenage daughter #8, Jeannie, and I moved to Lexington, Kentucky, U.S.A., in the year 2000, we wanted to find a church home. We had already been commuting from Danville to Lexington for several years, me for work, and Jeannie for high school. FYI: in my growing-up years, Catholics were strictly limited, by church policy, to the church in the geographical area in which they lived. Period. Note: while human policies can be changed, the divine doctrine of Jesus can and will never change.
Now we are permitted to choose our church community; we visited all seven (at the time) Catholic churches in Lexington. The medieval architecture of several of the older churches was very impressive, but we thought the services dragged. The newer churches were bare architecturally and jammed with tons of families with active children (read: noisy children). The university church seemed to emphasize 'peace and justice' more than worship. Jeanne personally selected the Cathedral Church, Christ the King, for our home. I have never once regretted that choice.
The first Sunday we attended Christ the King church was in 1999, on Christ the King Feastday. We were spiritually blown away by the incredibly beautiful, meaningful, inspiring service, and also by the friendliness of the folks there. Most Sundays thereafter, even before we moved to Lexington, we came to Christ the King.
Today is the Feastday of Christ the King. I revisited my original feelings 14 years ago at Mass this morning. Father Alan was busy with the readings, prayers, and a wonderful Baptism of a very cooperative baby. The crowd was big, as usual. There were trumpets and a bass drum to add to the celebration. The children's choir sounded like angels. Granddaughter #2, Heather, and I went together. This made it even more special! Seeing all these families with all their children, people of all ages and races, worshiping, praying, and celebrating together, gives me such hope for the future of Catholicism!
Then tonight there was a speaker who closed out the Catholic Church's "Year of Faith." The topic was "From Creed to Deed," in other words, belief in Jesus Christ, King of the Universe, is not enough. We are encouraged to SHARE our FAITH, tell our faith story, if we value our faith. Thomas Smith, from Idaho, is a convert to Catholicism from the Mormon faith, "a sixth-generation Mormon," in his words. He was a Baptist minister after he was a Mormon. Smith travels all over the world sharing his faith. Quite an interesting faith journey!
I personally was baptized into the Catholic faith as an infant. I went to Catholic schools for 14 years. I wish every person had this opportunity! It is a very disciplined, loving, protected, holy environment in which to learn and grow. In my freshman year in college, I wondered who this Jesus was. My neighborhood in Dayton, Ohio, was 50% Jewish. I had an inclination to see what the Jewish faith was about and wanted to visit the temple that I passed on the bus to school every day. But I never stopped going to Sunday Mass. It is said that every young adult has to question their faith to actually make it their own. I decided that I did, in fact, want to find out more about Jesus, and remain a Catholic. This is another choice I have never regretted. The goal is to have a personal relationship with Jesus. I find it immensely challenging and fulfilling! And today I went to my second home, Christ the King church - twice! Praise the Lord!!
Now we are permitted to choose our church community; we visited all seven (at the time) Catholic churches in Lexington. The medieval architecture of several of the older churches was very impressive, but we thought the services dragged. The newer churches were bare architecturally and jammed with tons of families with active children (read: noisy children). The university church seemed to emphasize 'peace and justice' more than worship. Jeanne personally selected the Cathedral Church, Christ the King, for our home. I have never once regretted that choice.
The first Sunday we attended Christ the King church was in 1999, on Christ the King Feastday. We were spiritually blown away by the incredibly beautiful, meaningful, inspiring service, and also by the friendliness of the folks there. Most Sundays thereafter, even before we moved to Lexington, we came to Christ the King.
Today is the Feastday of Christ the King. I revisited my original feelings 14 years ago at Mass this morning. Father Alan was busy with the readings, prayers, and a wonderful Baptism of a very cooperative baby. The crowd was big, as usual. There were trumpets and a bass drum to add to the celebration. The children's choir sounded like angels. Granddaughter #2, Heather, and I went together. This made it even more special! Seeing all these families with all their children, people of all ages and races, worshiping, praying, and celebrating together, gives me such hope for the future of Catholicism!
Then tonight there was a speaker who closed out the Catholic Church's "Year of Faith." The topic was "From Creed to Deed," in other words, belief in Jesus Christ, King of the Universe, is not enough. We are encouraged to SHARE our FAITH, tell our faith story, if we value our faith. Thomas Smith, from Idaho, is a convert to Catholicism from the Mormon faith, "a sixth-generation Mormon," in his words. He was a Baptist minister after he was a Mormon. Smith travels all over the world sharing his faith. Quite an interesting faith journey!
I personally was baptized into the Catholic faith as an infant. I went to Catholic schools for 14 years. I wish every person had this opportunity! It is a very disciplined, loving, protected, holy environment in which to learn and grow. In my freshman year in college, I wondered who this Jesus was. My neighborhood in Dayton, Ohio, was 50% Jewish. I had an inclination to see what the Jewish faith was about and wanted to visit the temple that I passed on the bus to school every day. But I never stopped going to Sunday Mass. It is said that every young adult has to question their faith to actually make it their own. I decided that I did, in fact, want to find out more about Jesus, and remain a Catholic. This is another choice I have never regretted. The goal is to have a personal relationship with Jesus. I find it immensely challenging and fulfilling! And today I went to my second home, Christ the King church - twice! Praise the Lord!!
Saturday, November 23, 2013
Linking Countries and the World
Through the pages of the National Geographic Magazine, I'm very familiar with the Andes Mountains in South America. I've flown over them, barely missing the highest, cloud-wrapped peaks, hiked, and rode on pack animals. Now I'm back again, in Chile, to bury a critical telephone cable.
"The World's Highest International Telephone Cable" is a brief article in the National Geographic Magazine's December, 1930, issue. It chronicles the difficult task of linking two countries, Chile and Argentina, through telephone communication. Due to serious problems of earthquakes and avalanches in the mountains, the cable had to be buried, not strung on telephone poles as was usually done in 1930.
The cable followed close to the railroad line through the mountains. Since the Andes rise to more than 20,000 feet, the laborers were men accustomed to working in the altitude.
There were several photographs of the tall statue, "Christ, the Redeemer," which stands at 12,000 feet above sea level, and is on the boundary between Chile and Argentina. The telephone cable runs directly in front of the statue.
"Once the Andes separated Chile and the Argentine not only physically and in a commercial way, but also formed a barrier against intellectual, social, and artistic relations. Now, by this new cable, friendly intercourse is easy" (p. 731). We who can talk easily by satellite telephone anywhere in the world should not underestimate the cost of progress in communication throughout the years. Sometimes it helps to remember those who made this possible.
"The World's Highest International Telephone Cable" is a brief article in the National Geographic Magazine's December, 1930, issue. It chronicles the difficult task of linking two countries, Chile and Argentina, through telephone communication. Due to serious problems of earthquakes and avalanches in the mountains, the cable had to be buried, not strung on telephone poles as was usually done in 1930.
The cable followed close to the railroad line through the mountains. Since the Andes rise to more than 20,000 feet, the laborers were men accustomed to working in the altitude.
There were several photographs of the tall statue, "Christ, the Redeemer," which stands at 12,000 feet above sea level, and is on the boundary between Chile and Argentina. The telephone cable runs directly in front of the statue.
"Once the Andes separated Chile and the Argentine not only physically and in a commercial way, but also formed a barrier against intellectual, social, and artistic relations. Now, by this new cable, friendly intercourse is easy" (p. 731). We who can talk easily by satellite telephone anywhere in the world should not underestimate the cost of progress in communication throughout the years. Sometimes it helps to remember those who made this possible.
Friday, November 22, 2013
Once Upon a Classic in Greece
The ancient Greek gods are well-known to most of us. In "New Greece, the Centenarian, Forges Ahead," National Geographic Magazine, December, 1930, Maynard Owen Williams begs us to "Let the Greece of Homer or Plato inspire us. The Greece of to-day will not betray our interest. Mere mortals now live into the haunts of the immortal gods, but they make it a friendly land" (p. 649).
The country of Greece lies in the eastern Mediterranean Sea, west of Turkey, south of Albania, Jugoslavia, and Bulgaria, and east of Italy. The land area is approximately that of the United States' New York State, and in 1930, the 100th year of its independence, there were more than six million citizens. FYI: prior to 1830, Greece belonged to Turkey.
Thanks to American aid in helping to build a dam creating a lake near Marathon, in 1930 the city of Athens had "sufficient water for the first time since Hadrian built his aqueduct, 1,800 years ago" (p. 656).
Ancient Greece originated the Olympic sports games. Mr. Williams visited Elis, the home of the Olympics. "Where is there such a place to sit and dream as here, where picked men from the whole Hellenic world met in a month of friendly training before competing for the victor's prize - a simple olive branch?" (p. 664). The games continued for 1,170 years until ended by the Byzantine Emperor Theodosius, around the year 375 A.D. The modern Olympics were resurrected in 1906. There are summer games, winter games, and even special olympics now.
Mr. Williams criss-crossed the country in planes, cars, and trains in search of authentic native costumes to photograph before they were lost. A favorite city was Salonika. "This city where St. Paul preached to the Thessalonians, presents a fine facade on the gulf, and the new seaside promenade is crowded at the twilight hour." In Macedonia, he "rented a flivver (old jalopy) and toured to the Turkish and Albanian frontiers. The roads were execrable, but an ambitious good-roads movement is now well underway" (p. 675).
Ancient and Middle Age ruins are scattered about the country. Many battle sites are forever remembered. "As in other parts of Greece, the sea is not neglected, and at Porto Lagos men were spearing octopuses with the aid of glass-bottomed buckets" (p. 683). Products for export included currants, olives, and tobacco.
The Greek Orthodox church was praised for leading the insurgency that resulted in Greece's independence 100 years ago. There are large monasteries throughout the country. One is built on a high stone pillar accessible only by a narrow stairway (formerly a visitor was pulled up in a net).
Part of this article is a 24-page color photograph section. Shown are beautiful and varied native costumes and one icon. Greece had many refugees from Asia Minor and gypsies in this time.
"Vlach women are so industrious that after they have broken camp and loaded the horses, and hoisted the chickens into place, and tied the wolf-dog so he won't get himself shot, and put the twins on the lead horse, and begun their trek to a new camping site, they inevitably take out a sock and do their knitting as they stride along (photo caption, p. 706).
Mr. Williams enjoyed his visit to the city of Athens. "In a brief walk in Athens, one stubs his toes against the centuries. The window-shoppers of Hermes Street are as modern as dull leather and lack-luster silk. Turn a corner and there is a Byzantine chapel in which Theodora would be at home. Roman megalomaniacs worshiped at the Olympicion. And there, on its austere rock, stands the Parthenon" (p. 693).
The country of Greece lies in the eastern Mediterranean Sea, west of Turkey, south of Albania, Jugoslavia, and Bulgaria, and east of Italy. The land area is approximately that of the United States' New York State, and in 1930, the 100th year of its independence, there were more than six million citizens. FYI: prior to 1830, Greece belonged to Turkey.
Thanks to American aid in helping to build a dam creating a lake near Marathon, in 1930 the city of Athens had "sufficient water for the first time since Hadrian built his aqueduct, 1,800 years ago" (p. 656).
Ancient Greece originated the Olympic sports games. Mr. Williams visited Elis, the home of the Olympics. "Where is there such a place to sit and dream as here, where picked men from the whole Hellenic world met in a month of friendly training before competing for the victor's prize - a simple olive branch?" (p. 664). The games continued for 1,170 years until ended by the Byzantine Emperor Theodosius, around the year 375 A.D. The modern Olympics were resurrected in 1906. There are summer games, winter games, and even special olympics now.
Mr. Williams criss-crossed the country in planes, cars, and trains in search of authentic native costumes to photograph before they were lost. A favorite city was Salonika. "This city where St. Paul preached to the Thessalonians, presents a fine facade on the gulf, and the new seaside promenade is crowded at the twilight hour." In Macedonia, he "rented a flivver (old jalopy) and toured to the Turkish and Albanian frontiers. The roads were execrable, but an ambitious good-roads movement is now well underway" (p. 675).
Ancient and Middle Age ruins are scattered about the country. Many battle sites are forever remembered. "As in other parts of Greece, the sea is not neglected, and at Porto Lagos men were spearing octopuses with the aid of glass-bottomed buckets" (p. 683). Products for export included currants, olives, and tobacco.
The Greek Orthodox church was praised for leading the insurgency that resulted in Greece's independence 100 years ago. There are large monasteries throughout the country. One is built on a high stone pillar accessible only by a narrow stairway (formerly a visitor was pulled up in a net).
Part of this article is a 24-page color photograph section. Shown are beautiful and varied native costumes and one icon. Greece had many refugees from Asia Minor and gypsies in this time.
"Vlach women are so industrious that after they have broken camp and loaded the horses, and hoisted the chickens into place, and tied the wolf-dog so he won't get himself shot, and put the twins on the lead horse, and begun their trek to a new camping site, they inevitably take out a sock and do their knitting as they stride along (photo caption, p. 706).
Mr. Williams enjoyed his visit to the city of Athens. "In a brief walk in Athens, one stubs his toes against the centuries. The window-shoppers of Hermes Street are as modern as dull leather and lack-luster silk. Turn a corner and there is a Byzantine chapel in which Theodora would be at home. Roman megalomaniacs worshiped at the Olympicion. And there, on its austere rock, stands the Parthenon" (p. 693).
 | ||||
| Our Greek friends, Dimitrie (center) with his son, Vasili (right) with son #2, John, on occasion of my grandson, Matthew's high school graduation, June, 2010, in Poquoson, Virginia, U.S.A. |
 | |
| Matthew, the graduate, on the right, with his mom, Anna, daughter #1, and dad, Stan, at the graduation party, June, 2010. |
The Greek theater has been alive for thousands of years "Properly to appreciate the home of Apollo and the Oracle, one must get into the spirit of the place. The Delphic Festival of 1930 made this possible. While dining with the hundreds of amateur actors, I noted with what intellectual freshness these joyous folk greeted one another in parody verses. . .Native handicrafts were exhibited. Athletic contests were held. Peasants whirled in native dances. . .I lived in a peasant home. . .It is this friendliness which remains as my most vivid impression of Greece. . .The glory of Greece has not departed" (p 717). Modern Greece is most definitely on my 'bucket list' of places to visit!
Thursday, November 21, 2013
The Worst Place on Earth?
Since I finished reading this latest National Geographic Magazine article, "Viking Life in the Storm-Cursed Faeroes," I have vowed to never complain about our cold, nasty winter weather with the icy, slick roads. My life is heaven on earth compared to the folks who lived in these islands in the Norwegian Sea in 1930. Mr. Leo Hansen reports the activities of his two summers there in the November, 1930, issue.
A bit of geography: there are 22 islands, 17 of which were inhabited in 1930, in the Faeroe Islands. They are due west of Norway, north of Scotland, southeast of Greenland, but were owned by Denmark, 1,000 miles to their southeast. In a land half the size of the United States' Rhode Island, there were approximately 22,000 inhabitants at that time. The islands are mostly black basalt, volcanic rock, with high cliffs on most sides some 400 to 600 to 2,000 feet high.
Mr. Hansen traveled to the Faeroes with one of its natives, a veterinarian who was an expert sailor. They attempted some 200 trips to various islands. Due to the extreme and unrelenting wind which whipped up tall waves around the cliffs, all trips could not be completed. Nearly all trips on and between these islands had to be made by sea. "Two automobiles, both American, have been brought to the island. The longest trip that can be made in them is two miles, on a narrow road out of Thorshavn. What gondolas are to Venice, rowboats are to The Faeroes" (p. 613).
Whenever Mr. Hansen tried to land on one of the islands, he would have to take off his shoes to avoid slipping on the rocks, and leap onto nearby rocks. This was extremely dangerous and he landed in the cold ocean at times. He writes, "Myggenses (island) is cursed by wind and waves, for the storms that leave Newfoundland and Greenland gather all their forces and loose them here" (p. 617). And then, "Winds blow so violently the year around that trees are a rarity, growing only in the most protected places" (p. 642).
The town of Thorshavn is the capital of The Faeroes. In spite of the availability of stone, islanders prefer to build their homes of wood which must be 100% imported. On the northern islands are found "sons and daughters of the Viking settlers, who came about 800 A.D. They have blue eyes and flaxen hair. They are silent, grim, determined" (p. 637). In the south they "often have dark hair and eyes" and seem "more hospitable to strangers" (p. 637). Yet, they share a common language of Scandinavian origin, Faeroese.
These islanders build rock fences, some of them six feet wide, reinforced with iron rods. "Often, when storms howl down on the islands, blotting out even the rock walls barricading the house, entire families hug the fire for weeks at a time, never venturing outside" (p. 625).
The chief occupation of the islanders was catching and drying codfish for an international market. They also had sheep herds. "Higher wages and an easier life on the continent cannot lure the Faeroe farmer from his sod-roofed house, his thin soil that will grow no grain save barley, and his flock of sheep that suffers as much as he in the gales that spray the black rocks and pastures with the salt spume of a raging sea. When he cannot find a sheep, he knows what has happened: the wind has blown it over a cliff" (p. 621).
The islands had a very large bird population, mostly sea parrots, also called puffins. They nest in the cliffs. Some of the men catch these birds with nets or go down the cliffs to gather eggs. This is incredibly dangerous! "No one ever got hurt, no one ever got off with a broken leg; one either got killed or didn't get killed" (p. 643).
Mr. Hansen wanted to photograph a whale hunt but it didn't happen. "So I am going back some summer and wait for that telephone call, "Whales sighted!" " (p. 648).
A bit of geography: there are 22 islands, 17 of which were inhabited in 1930, in the Faeroe Islands. They are due west of Norway, north of Scotland, southeast of Greenland, but were owned by Denmark, 1,000 miles to their southeast. In a land half the size of the United States' Rhode Island, there were approximately 22,000 inhabitants at that time. The islands are mostly black basalt, volcanic rock, with high cliffs on most sides some 400 to 600 to 2,000 feet high.
Mr. Hansen traveled to the Faeroes with one of its natives, a veterinarian who was an expert sailor. They attempted some 200 trips to various islands. Due to the extreme and unrelenting wind which whipped up tall waves around the cliffs, all trips could not be completed. Nearly all trips on and between these islands had to be made by sea. "Two automobiles, both American, have been brought to the island. The longest trip that can be made in them is two miles, on a narrow road out of Thorshavn. What gondolas are to Venice, rowboats are to The Faeroes" (p. 613).
Whenever Mr. Hansen tried to land on one of the islands, he would have to take off his shoes to avoid slipping on the rocks, and leap onto nearby rocks. This was extremely dangerous and he landed in the cold ocean at times. He writes, "Myggenses (island) is cursed by wind and waves, for the storms that leave Newfoundland and Greenland gather all their forces and loose them here" (p. 617). And then, "Winds blow so violently the year around that trees are a rarity, growing only in the most protected places" (p. 642).
The town of Thorshavn is the capital of The Faeroes. In spite of the availability of stone, islanders prefer to build their homes of wood which must be 100% imported. On the northern islands are found "sons and daughters of the Viking settlers, who came about 800 A.D. They have blue eyes and flaxen hair. They are silent, grim, determined" (p. 637). In the south they "often have dark hair and eyes" and seem "more hospitable to strangers" (p. 637). Yet, they share a common language of Scandinavian origin, Faeroese.
These islanders build rock fences, some of them six feet wide, reinforced with iron rods. "Often, when storms howl down on the islands, blotting out even the rock walls barricading the house, entire families hug the fire for weeks at a time, never venturing outside" (p. 625).
The chief occupation of the islanders was catching and drying codfish for an international market. They also had sheep herds. "Higher wages and an easier life on the continent cannot lure the Faeroe farmer from his sod-roofed house, his thin soil that will grow no grain save barley, and his flock of sheep that suffers as much as he in the gales that spray the black rocks and pastures with the salt spume of a raging sea. When he cannot find a sheep, he knows what has happened: the wind has blown it over a cliff" (p. 621).
The islands had a very large bird population, mostly sea parrots, also called puffins. They nest in the cliffs. Some of the men catch these birds with nets or go down the cliffs to gather eggs. This is incredibly dangerous! "No one ever got hurt, no one ever got off with a broken leg; one either got killed or didn't get killed" (p. 643).
Mr. Hansen wanted to photograph a whale hunt but it didn't happen. "So I am going back some summer and wait for that telephone call, "Whales sighted!" " (p. 648).
Wednesday, November 20, 2013
To the Jungle!
On this chilly November day, let's venture into a warm South American Jungle! Through the pages of the National Geographic Magazine, I feel like I've been there many times previously. Up the mighty Amazon River we paddle our boats, dense jungle all the way. Hear the chattering monkeys, see the blazing colors of the flitting parrots. . .Today in the magazine, I'm reading G.H.H. Tate's account, "Through Brazil to the Summit of Mount Roraima," November, 1930.
This remote mountain is located at the point where the boundaries of British Guiana, Venezuela, and Brazil converge, near the northeast coast of the continent. I would like to know what attraction the remote site holds for the explorer and his party of 300. He admits, "Several travelers have visited Roraima. Comparatively few, though, have remained only for a few hours or for a single night" (p. 585).
The first enticement is rare and unusual plant life brought back by previous expeditions, such as "a very beautiful pitcherplant and the only kind known from South America" (p. 585). We need to remember that there are no roads or even paths through the jungle to the mountain in 1930. A would-be explorer has to cut his way through the jungle. "Here is the home of deer and howling monkey, of guan and anaconda (really BIG snake!)" (p. 587).
The Arcuna Indians live near the mountains and were extremely cooperative with the explorers. The Indians have no money but barter with lengths of cloth. They are expert hunters with blowguns. There is a photo of a young Indian with a blowgun much longer than he is tall. "All the Indians of the Roraima region are highly skilled in the use of this weapon. They blow a twelve-inch palmwood dart through a eight-foot tube and seldom miss the mark" (photo caption, p. 602).
The male Indians wear loincloths and the females wear 'aprons.' With the bartered cloth, they make colorful garments which are worn for special ceremonies only. Every village has its own witch doctor. Then there are colonies of large ants and the anteater bears with their long snouts.
Mount Roraima has a top which appears nearly as flat as a table, covering an area of 25 square miles. Nearby is Mount Kukenam which appears to be as flat at approximately the same height, 8,600 feet above sea level. The mountains are separated by a gorge 150 feet wide and 1,000 feet deep. They rise 4,000 feet above a plain and their tops are usually hidden in clouds.
Mr. Tate and his large party camp near the summit of the mountain. He ascends to the top with difficulty. It is extremely rocky with deep, unexplained cuts in the rocks. The rocks are so rough that his shoes wear out quickly. It is frustrating to work in the mist of the clouds. However, "instead of finding a rocky waste supporting next to no animal and vegetable life, we have definite record on Roraima of more than 120 kinds of living creatures, more than 90 of higher plants and ferns and many mosses and lichens" (p. 605). He is happily busy collecting these specimens to bring home to America. He is supported by the America Museum of Natural History.
Despite having to deal with all the problems and inconveniences, Mr. Tate develops a respect for the mountain. "Quite apart from these wonders of nature and the strange plants and animals that dwell there, I like to think of Roraima as having personality. Utterly cold and aloof, he inspires reverence rather than affection. Yet the Indians who played as children and grew to manhood seem happiest when within sight of his frowning cliffs. . .Is he kind? Does he ever smile for his Arcuna children?
This remote mountain is located at the point where the boundaries of British Guiana, Venezuela, and Brazil converge, near the northeast coast of the continent. I would like to know what attraction the remote site holds for the explorer and his party of 300. He admits, "Several travelers have visited Roraima. Comparatively few, though, have remained only for a few hours or for a single night" (p. 585).
The first enticement is rare and unusual plant life brought back by previous expeditions, such as "a very beautiful pitcherplant and the only kind known from South America" (p. 585). We need to remember that there are no roads or even paths through the jungle to the mountain in 1930. A would-be explorer has to cut his way through the jungle. "Here is the home of deer and howling monkey, of guan and anaconda (really BIG snake!)" (p. 587).
The Arcuna Indians live near the mountains and were extremely cooperative with the explorers. The Indians have no money but barter with lengths of cloth. They are expert hunters with blowguns. There is a photo of a young Indian with a blowgun much longer than he is tall. "All the Indians of the Roraima region are highly skilled in the use of this weapon. They blow a twelve-inch palmwood dart through a eight-foot tube and seldom miss the mark" (photo caption, p. 602).
The male Indians wear loincloths and the females wear 'aprons.' With the bartered cloth, they make colorful garments which are worn for special ceremonies only. Every village has its own witch doctor. Then there are colonies of large ants and the anteater bears with their long snouts.
Mount Roraima has a top which appears nearly as flat as a table, covering an area of 25 square miles. Nearby is Mount Kukenam which appears to be as flat at approximately the same height, 8,600 feet above sea level. The mountains are separated by a gorge 150 feet wide and 1,000 feet deep. They rise 4,000 feet above a plain and their tops are usually hidden in clouds.
Mr. Tate and his large party camp near the summit of the mountain. He ascends to the top with difficulty. It is extremely rocky with deep, unexplained cuts in the rocks. The rocks are so rough that his shoes wear out quickly. It is frustrating to work in the mist of the clouds. However, "instead of finding a rocky waste supporting next to no animal and vegetable life, we have definite record on Roraima of more than 120 kinds of living creatures, more than 90 of higher plants and ferns and many mosses and lichens" (p. 605). He is happily busy collecting these specimens to bring home to America. He is supported by the America Museum of Natural History.
Despite having to deal with all the problems and inconveniences, Mr. Tate develops a respect for the mountain. "Quite apart from these wonders of nature and the strange plants and animals that dwell there, I like to think of Roraima as having personality. Utterly cold and aloof, he inspires reverence rather than affection. Yet the Indians who played as children and grew to manhood seem happiest when within sight of his frowning cliffs. . .Is he kind? Does he ever smile for his Arcuna children?
Tuesday, November 19, 2013
Booming New York City!
The New York City of 1930 was growing in every way but especially up in the air with the multiplication of skyscrapers! In "This Giant That is New York," Frederick Simpich boasts that New York is "the very acme of human effort." "Power and light are its symbols and skyscrapers its phenomena. By day they make its magic and they turn its nights into cosmic melodrama" (p. 517, National Geographic Magazine, November, 1930).
"New York never grew fast till electric power came to pull its trains without smoke" (p. 517). The statistics in this long article are amazing. Thomas Edison gave the city its first electric current in 1882. By 1930, New York manufactured 60% of the women's clothing in the United States and 70% of our books. At that time, the author gave his opinion that "American women put style above quality" (p. 550). Gradually, especially during our "Hippie" period of the 1970's, women cared less about style. Now, many styles are worn. No longer do women look to the fashionistas for which hemline length should be worn every year!
In this short review, I'll mention some items that have fallen by the wayside and some things that have endured in New York City. In 1930, there were many immigrants, mostly of European and Russian origin. Today, immigration is more restricted yet there are millions of illegal immigrants of Mexican origin. Immigrants enter into many ports besides New York City across the country, and also across the deserts in the southwestern states.
Trains moved a stupendous amount of passengers and freight back then. My late Grandpa, Robert, told us kids growing up, that in the 1920's, before he began his career of 45 years at a wholesale whiskey dealer in Louisville, Kentucky, U.S.A., he rode trains full of live chickens into New York City. The metro city of 10 million (in 1930) required an immense amount of food. In this 21st century, airplanes move the most passengers. J.F.K. airport in New York City is a real adventure these days!
In 1930, the Chrysler Building was the tallest in the world with 77 stories. Yet at the same time, the Empire State Building was under construction. It would open in 1931 with 85 stories. Checking the tallest buildings in the world and the U.S.A. today are #1) Burj Khalifa in Dubai, 163 floors at 2,717 feet tall, completed 2010; #4) One World Trade Center in New York City, 104 floors at 1776 feet tall, completed 2013; #11) Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower) in Chicago, 108 floors at 1450 feet tall, completed 1973; #15) Trump Tower in Chicago, 98 floors at 1389 feet, completed 2009, and #24) The Empire State Building in New York City, 102 floors at 1250 feet, completed 1931.
Our personal family history of tall buildings: before my son #1, Billy's wedding in Chicago in 1984, we went to the top of the Sears Tower. I was enjoying the view through the glassed floor when there was a small prop plane flying below; that gave me a dizzy sensation. Other than that, I'm never bothered by heights. This National Geographic article mentions that the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel was torn down to be replaced by the Empire State Building. I never knew that the present Hotel was at its second location. Daughter #7, Marie, and her husband, Charles, honeymooned there in 2007.
Mr. Simpich wrote that "New York is the center of American culture when its products are put up for sale" (p. 549). Although now every major city has its orchestras, museums, ballets, movie theaters, artists, and craftspersons, the New York City theater is still considered the pinnacle of live productions.
Prominent in 1930 was the Belmont Park horse races, the Stock Exchange, and Wall Street financiers. They're still going strong today!
The author predicted a metro New York City population of perhaps 20 million by 1965. In 2012, the Metro population was 19,831,000 - close to his prediction! Yet the Asian cities eclipse this. We Americans may appreciate and value The Big Apple but most of us, me included, would rather not venture there and endure the crowds and traffic. Let my acquaintance with the city end with watching The Ball Drop every New Year's Eve!
"New York never grew fast till electric power came to pull its trains without smoke" (p. 517). The statistics in this long article are amazing. Thomas Edison gave the city its first electric current in 1882. By 1930, New York manufactured 60% of the women's clothing in the United States and 70% of our books. At that time, the author gave his opinion that "American women put style above quality" (p. 550). Gradually, especially during our "Hippie" period of the 1970's, women cared less about style. Now, many styles are worn. No longer do women look to the fashionistas for which hemline length should be worn every year!
In this short review, I'll mention some items that have fallen by the wayside and some things that have endured in New York City. In 1930, there were many immigrants, mostly of European and Russian origin. Today, immigration is more restricted yet there are millions of illegal immigrants of Mexican origin. Immigrants enter into many ports besides New York City across the country, and also across the deserts in the southwestern states.
Trains moved a stupendous amount of passengers and freight back then. My late Grandpa, Robert, told us kids growing up, that in the 1920's, before he began his career of 45 years at a wholesale whiskey dealer in Louisville, Kentucky, U.S.A., he rode trains full of live chickens into New York City. The metro city of 10 million (in 1930) required an immense amount of food. In this 21st century, airplanes move the most passengers. J.F.K. airport in New York City is a real adventure these days!
In 1930, the Chrysler Building was the tallest in the world with 77 stories. Yet at the same time, the Empire State Building was under construction. It would open in 1931 with 85 stories. Checking the tallest buildings in the world and the U.S.A. today are #1) Burj Khalifa in Dubai, 163 floors at 2,717 feet tall, completed 2010; #4) One World Trade Center in New York City, 104 floors at 1776 feet tall, completed 2013; #11) Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower) in Chicago, 108 floors at 1450 feet tall, completed 1973; #15) Trump Tower in Chicago, 98 floors at 1389 feet, completed 2009, and #24) The Empire State Building in New York City, 102 floors at 1250 feet, completed 1931.
Our personal family history of tall buildings: before my son #1, Billy's wedding in Chicago in 1984, we went to the top of the Sears Tower. I was enjoying the view through the glassed floor when there was a small prop plane flying below; that gave me a dizzy sensation. Other than that, I'm never bothered by heights. This National Geographic article mentions that the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel was torn down to be replaced by the Empire State Building. I never knew that the present Hotel was at its second location. Daughter #7, Marie, and her husband, Charles, honeymooned there in 2007.
Mr. Simpich wrote that "New York is the center of American culture when its products are put up for sale" (p. 549). Although now every major city has its orchestras, museums, ballets, movie theaters, artists, and craftspersons, the New York City theater is still considered the pinnacle of live productions.
Prominent in 1930 was the Belmont Park horse races, the Stock Exchange, and Wall Street financiers. They're still going strong today!
The author predicted a metro New York City population of perhaps 20 million by 1965. In 2012, the Metro population was 19,831,000 - close to his prediction! Yet the Asian cities eclipse this. We Americans may appreciate and value The Big Apple but most of us, me included, would rather not venture there and endure the crowds and traffic. Let my acquaintance with the city end with watching The Ball Drop every New Year's Eve!
Monday, November 18, 2013
Surprise: Back to the Middle East!
It is most fitting, for me, that the very next National Geographic Magazine article in the October, 1930 issue, brings me back to that area of the world which I set foot in, only several weeks ago. Mr. F.A. Schaeffer writes of his archeological discoveries in the country of Syria in "A New Alphabet of the Ancients is Unearthed: An Inconspicuous Mound in Northern Syria Yields Archeological Treasures of Far-reaching Significance."
Present-day Israel had not yet been conceived as a country when this expedition took place. I could almost feel the blistering, dry heat as the author packed up his treasures to be shipped to France. Israel is south of Syria, on the extreme east of the Mediterranean Sea. The land in Syria appears to look very similar in the magazine photos. Syria is south of Turkey, north of Lebanon and Palestine.
Mr. Shaeffer journeyed to the region of Syria then called "Alaouites region" to pursue what he heard might be a good 'dig' for objects of antiquities. He started on the trip in March, 1929, with baggage camels, horses, and donkeys. His party camped in tents. He was backed financially by the Institut de France in Paris. Any important objects found would be sent to their museum in Paris.
As he passed through the villages on his way to the coast of Syria, the author noted the native culture and habitats. Apparently, the women did most of the work, "are treated like beasts of burden, and excluded from religious rite" yet "they appear contented with their lot" (photo caption, p. 485). He noticed that the women were mixing animal manure with straw and forming cakes with their bare hands for fuel to be used in winter. He concluded, "I soon discontinued my study of the fuel of the Alaouites for the odor was unbearable" (p. 485).
Since there was no timber, the native citizens made their homes from mud bricks, in the shape of beehives.
Mr. Shaeffer was alerted to the place to begin by a previous native find of an ancient grave. Work was begun there. The scientist did not expect to find objects of great value due to the ever-present grave robbers, both of antiquity and modern origin. He found much pottery.
Then he explored the nearby hills and took a chance on the king's palace being on the highest hill. He was soon rewarded by finding two tombs of kings, 3,500 years old. Yes, of course, the tombs had been robbed but among the discarded pottery were found amazing tablets. "In a room divided by three pillars we came upon a large number of clay tablets covered with cuneiform text. We had found the palace library! These writings promise to reveal most valuable information concerning the history of the ancient Near East" . . . one of the oldest known alphabets" (p. 510).
Mr. Schaeffer further explains, "Many scholars have praised the Phoenicians as the inventors of the alphabet. Our discovery indicates, however, that long before the Phoenicians, the Kings of Ras Shamra used a genuine alphsbetical script for their diplomatic correspondence" (p. 512).
Further back in the diggings were found other objects robbers had missed: pottery, gold and bronze objects, some jewel-covered, and a group of 74 bronze tools. Finally, in June, due to the unbearable heat, and also that the "Bandits were active near the boundary (between Syria and Turkey) and had killed a French archeologist who resisted robbery" (p. 515), Mr. Shaeffer packed up his prizes and put them on a ship bound for France. These expeditions seem to always be packed with adventure!
Present-day Israel had not yet been conceived as a country when this expedition took place. I could almost feel the blistering, dry heat as the author packed up his treasures to be shipped to France. Israel is south of Syria, on the extreme east of the Mediterranean Sea. The land in Syria appears to look very similar in the magazine photos. Syria is south of Turkey, north of Lebanon and Palestine.
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| Shore of the Sea of Galilee, Israel, October, 2013, southeast of Syria. |
Mr. Shaeffer journeyed to the region of Syria then called "Alaouites region" to pursue what he heard might be a good 'dig' for objects of antiquities. He started on the trip in March, 1929, with baggage camels, horses, and donkeys. His party camped in tents. He was backed financially by the Institut de France in Paris. Any important objects found would be sent to their museum in Paris.
As he passed through the villages on his way to the coast of Syria, the author noted the native culture and habitats. Apparently, the women did most of the work, "are treated like beasts of burden, and excluded from religious rite" yet "they appear contented with their lot" (photo caption, p. 485). He noticed that the women were mixing animal manure with straw and forming cakes with their bare hands for fuel to be used in winter. He concluded, "I soon discontinued my study of the fuel of the Alaouites for the odor was unbearable" (p. 485).
Since there was no timber, the native citizens made their homes from mud bricks, in the shape of beehives.
Mr. Shaeffer was alerted to the place to begin by a previous native find of an ancient grave. Work was begun there. The scientist did not expect to find objects of great value due to the ever-present grave robbers, both of antiquity and modern origin. He found much pottery.
Then he explored the nearby hills and took a chance on the king's palace being on the highest hill. He was soon rewarded by finding two tombs of kings, 3,500 years old. Yes, of course, the tombs had been robbed but among the discarded pottery were found amazing tablets. "In a room divided by three pillars we came upon a large number of clay tablets covered with cuneiform text. We had found the palace library! These writings promise to reveal most valuable information concerning the history of the ancient Near East" . . . one of the oldest known alphabets" (p. 510).
Mr. Schaeffer further explains, "Many scholars have praised the Phoenicians as the inventors of the alphabet. Our discovery indicates, however, that long before the Phoenicians, the Kings of Ras Shamra used a genuine alphsbetical script for their diplomatic correspondence" (p. 512).
Further back in the diggings were found other objects robbers had missed: pottery, gold and bronze objects, some jewel-covered, and a group of 74 bronze tools. Finally, in June, due to the unbearable heat, and also that the "Bandits were active near the boundary (between Syria and Turkey) and had killed a French archeologist who resisted robbery" (p. 515), Mr. Shaeffer packed up his prizes and put them on a ship bound for France. These expeditions seem to always be packed with adventure!
Sunday, November 17, 2013
"P" Help #8: Getting the Most Out of Your Trip
Here's a few random thoughts I've had since I got home from the Big Trip to Israel & Italy.
1. You'll probably want to take lots of photos. Know your camera very well, before you leave home, especially if it's a new camera. It may help to take an extra digital card. I wish I had! After a week, every night I had to delete some photos so I could take more the next day. Sure, I could have bought a new card but I'm cheap: I have two more at home I should have brought! Also, if you have an I-phone, it's fun to let everyone at home know where you are.
Bring your chargers for every device - phone, camera, I-pad, computer, etc. - in your carry-on luggage. Also, bring electrical outlet adapters specific to every country you're visiting. A few hotels may have one AC plug and many others will let you borrow an adapter. But you'll probably have to re-charge every device, every night, overnight.
2. There are so many things you'll want to remember, buy a pictorial book, a small one, at each site.
3. Pack as little as possible! This cannot be over-emphasized! I know of a couple that packs into a backpack each. I'm not quite that austere, but it can be done. This trip, I only brought the shoes I was wearing. Shoes are heavy!
4. Even though you'll have an idea of weather conditions where you'll be going, pack enough warm clothes for super-cold air conditioned places or if the weather turns colder than what you expect.
5. Bring a small alarm clock. Not all hotels offer wake-up service. You don't want to be late for important stuff!
6. Unless you can sleep in any and all light and noise habitats, bring an eye mask and ear plugs. It really helps on planes on those long over-night trips. A neck roll also helps. I have the blow-up kind that doesn't take up hardly any room in your luggage.
7. Fridge magnets make great gifts for all those at home you want to remember - they're cheap, usually don't break, and are small. Don't forget to get one for yourself!
8. Bring business cards with your contact information, including your e-mail. This beats writing it out for every new person you want to contact in the future. And get e-mail addresses from your new acquaintances. Lovely friendships have begun on trips!
9. You'll want to observe your religious services when you're traveling. The hotel always knows where to find the church/synagogue/temple of your choice. Or you can google it before you leave.
FYI: "P" help stands for "Prior Preparation Prevents Poor Performance." See prior blog lists for #1 through #7.
1. You'll probably want to take lots of photos. Know your camera very well, before you leave home, especially if it's a new camera. It may help to take an extra digital card. I wish I had! After a week, every night I had to delete some photos so I could take more the next day. Sure, I could have bought a new card but I'm cheap: I have two more at home I should have brought! Also, if you have an I-phone, it's fun to let everyone at home know where you are.
Bring your chargers for every device - phone, camera, I-pad, computer, etc. - in your carry-on luggage. Also, bring electrical outlet adapters specific to every country you're visiting. A few hotels may have one AC plug and many others will let you borrow an adapter. But you'll probably have to re-charge every device, every night, overnight.
2. There are so many things you'll want to remember, buy a pictorial book, a small one, at each site.
3. Pack as little as possible! This cannot be over-emphasized! I know of a couple that packs into a backpack each. I'm not quite that austere, but it can be done. This trip, I only brought the shoes I was wearing. Shoes are heavy!
4. Even though you'll have an idea of weather conditions where you'll be going, pack enough warm clothes for super-cold air conditioned places or if the weather turns colder than what you expect.
5. Bring a small alarm clock. Not all hotels offer wake-up service. You don't want to be late for important stuff!
6. Unless you can sleep in any and all light and noise habitats, bring an eye mask and ear plugs. It really helps on planes on those long over-night trips. A neck roll also helps. I have the blow-up kind that doesn't take up hardly any room in your luggage.
7. Fridge magnets make great gifts for all those at home you want to remember - they're cheap, usually don't break, and are small. Don't forget to get one for yourself!
8. Bring business cards with your contact information, including your e-mail. This beats writing it out for every new person you want to contact in the future. And get e-mail addresses from your new acquaintances. Lovely friendships have begun on trips!
9. You'll want to observe your religious services when you're traveling. The hotel always knows where to find the church/synagogue/temple of your choice. Or you can google it before you leave.
FYI: "P" help stands for "Prior Preparation Prevents Poor Performance." See prior blog lists for #1 through #7.
Saturday, November 16, 2013
Back to Rome, Then Home, Sweet Home! (Day 14, Sunday, November 3, 2013)
It is a quick night if you have to get up at 3 a.m. so we can be checked out of our hotel and leave by 4 a.m., but we do it, all of us! The hotel was kind enough to give us a bag of goodies for breakfast that we could eat in the bus on the road to Rome. The morning, when the sun rises, is somewhat overcast, and this helps us catnap on the way.
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| The sun appears for a moment, in the Italian countryside. I can't sleep: I want to remember every thing I can! |
Leaving Rome through customs was a lot quicker than getting in the country, thankfully. We don't have many minutes to spare, but we easily make our Delta Air Lines flight at 10:15 a.m. Flight duration: 11 hours, 31 minutes; distance, 5033 miles. We arrive at Atlanta, Georgia, good ole U.S. of A., at 3:45 p.m.
Our Lexington group is really, really tired but we can make it for just one more flight: Atlanta to Lexington, Kentucky, leaves at 7:42 p.m., gets home to Lexington at 9:02 p.m. Joy and happiness! We are HOME at last!! It is night but I look around and enjoy the SPACE! America, the Beautiful, we have so much SPACE, it is wonderful! It is good to see family - lots of wonderful hugs! And, none of our luggage was lost or delayed on this long trip. Total miles from Rome: 5,338. It seemed twice as fast as our trip from Lexington to Tel Aviv, Israel.
Oh, the memories, photos (887), and the souvenirs we have brought with us! But both Theresa and I are worn out, so unpacking will wait till tomorrow. We praise the Lord for keeping us and everyone with us safe on our Pilgrimage.
Our Lexington group is really, really tired but we can make it for just one more flight: Atlanta to Lexington, Kentucky, leaves at 7:42 p.m., gets home to Lexington at 9:02 p.m. Joy and happiness! We are HOME at last!! It is night but I look around and enjoy the SPACE! America, the Beautiful, we have so much SPACE, it is wonderful! It is good to see family - lots of wonderful hugs! And, none of our luggage was lost or delayed on this long trip. Total miles from Rome: 5,338. It seemed twice as fast as our trip from Lexington to Tel Aviv, Israel.
Oh, the memories, photos (887), and the souvenirs we have brought with us! But both Theresa and I are worn out, so unpacking will wait till tomorrow. We praise the Lord for keeping us and everyone with us safe on our Pilgrimage.
Friday, November 15, 2013
Touring Florence (Day 13, Saturday, November 2, 2013)
What a joyous day! We don't have to travel far to begin our day! After breakfast, we go to the Galleria Dell' Accademia, the museum where Michaelangelo's famous statue of David is displayed. Lines are long and security is tight. No photos are permitted. We start with rooms of unfinished statues, ancient statues, then spend our time admiring David. This is the Biblical David who defeated the giant Goliath with a stone in his slingshot. The statue is tall and majestic. Even the veins on his arms, hands, and legs are visible. He looks like he might breathe at any moment! Our guide, a specialist on Florence from Sweden, Monica, tells us that this is David before the incident. His gaze displays confidence but an element of trepidation. Amazing!
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| At left is a copy of the David statue, in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, Florence's town hall for centuries. |
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| The major cathedral in Florence, Italy, is Santa Maria del Fiore, or St. Mary of the Flowers. It was begun in 1296 and is constructed of green and white marble, different from every other church we've seen in Italy. |
The cathedral is one of the largest in Italy. Ten years ago, it was closed due to renovation so I'm very pleased to be able to go inside today. Our guide, Monica, said,"The people of Florence wanted the Best cathedral in the world. And they got it!" There was incredible competition between the city-states of the time.
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| The beautiful round Baptistry of the Cathedral. |
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| Biblical scenes on the huge bronze doors on the entrance to the Baptistry. |
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| Once again, we get to bypass the lengthy lines to enter the cathedral. |
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| Main altar of Santa Maria del Fiore church. |
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| Most unusual clock, very large, on the back wall of the cathedral, above the entrance doors, still working. |
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| Tall dome of the cathedral, tallest brick dome in the world. |
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| Theresa (center) with Monica, our Florence guide from Sweden on the right and our faithful Elianora on the left. |
After spending time in the cathedral, our guides told us we were free till we were to meet in the Piazza della Signoria, the large plaza where the town hall, Palazzo Vecchio, was located. A group of us wanted to see the famous bridge, Ponte Vecchio, first, so we walked the short distance there.
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| Ponte Vecchio bridge, Florence, Italy. |
This photo shows the bridge as if the narrow street going through it is flat. Actually, there's quite a climb both to get on the bridge and down the far side. It was built in 1345 and was the only Florence bridge to survive World War II. Stores on the bridge sell very costly gold and silver jewelry, fun for us to windowshop. The bridge spans the Arno River.
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| Archie took this of our mini-group pals: from left, Margaret, Theresa, Pearl, and me/Jan. It is from the middle of Ponte Vecchio Bridge. |
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| Taken from Ponte Vecchio, the river is so calm that the next bridges and sky are mirrored in its waters. |
After the bridge, we eat lunch and shop. We walk and walk, admiring the wide variety of merchandise in the shops, mostly very expensive. When we're nearly totally tired, we walk some more in search of gelato. At last we find the gelato and sit and enjoy it for a while. We return to the Piazza della Signoria to meet with our group when it is almost sunset. We walk a short distance down a long and narrow street to a large restaurant for a fine dinner.
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| Upper part of the Palazzo Vecchio, medieval town hall in Florence, Italy, in the Piazza della Signoria.. |
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| Mural on the wall of our last restaurant, last dinner in Florence. We can't believe our vacation is over so quickly! |
Back to the hotel and we have a sabbath Mass because we know we'll be on the road and in the air tomorrow, Sunday - all day! We pack and drop in bed: the bus will leave at 4 a.m. sharp for the trip back to Rome Fiumicino airport! Good night!
Thursday, November 14, 2013
Canals and Gondolas! (Day 12, Friday, November 1, 2013)
Our Florence hotel, Starhotel Tuscany, is fine and comfortable. Theresa's one requirement is a coffeepot: check! My requirement is a tub I can soak: check! Today is one of the church's holydays, All Saints Day. We all rise early and go to Mass at 7 a.m. in the hotel conference room.
In the dining room, a fine breakfast awaits us. At 8:15, our large group is all aboard the bus for a trip through the Apennine Mountains to the city of Venice. The mountains are beautiful, all tree-covered. From the highways, we view rows of grapevines, as far as we can see, in many places.
Along the way, Elianora, our chief guide, gives us some history of the city of Venice. There are actually 120 islands in the city, connected by 400 bridges. In the city, there are 2,000 alleys and canals. Venice was founded after the fall of the Roman Empire to escape the invasion of barbarians, in approximately the fifth to sixth century A.D. In the ninth century, Venice was a federation of islands, a Democratic Republic, an independent state. Even though Venice had no king, it was a very powerful republic with a 'college of senators.' The most important person was the "Doge" (pronounced doe-jay), like a duke. From the ninth through eighteenth centuries the 'trades' were very powerful. Venice was the Golden Door between the east (Istanbul & Constantinople) and west. The city was unified into Italy in the late eighteenth century.
All of our guides have had such obvious pride in their respective histories! They are the right person for their jobs! Also, we have been blessed with spectacular weather all during the trip. Several raindrops fell one day, on the bus windshield. Other than that, the days were sunny, temperature in the mid 70's F.
Venice, Oh, Venice!! The last time I saw you I didn't want to leave you! Today I'm thrilled to be back and wander the dark, narrow passageways they dare to name 'struts.'
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| Our priests, ready for Mass. |
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| Mountains and more mountains along our route. |
Along the way, Elianora, our chief guide, gives us some history of the city of Venice. There are actually 120 islands in the city, connected by 400 bridges. In the city, there are 2,000 alleys and canals. Venice was founded after the fall of the Roman Empire to escape the invasion of barbarians, in approximately the fifth to sixth century A.D. In the ninth century, Venice was a federation of islands, a Democratic Republic, an independent state. Even though Venice had no king, it was a very powerful republic with a 'college of senators.' The most important person was the "Doge" (pronounced doe-jay), like a duke. From the ninth through eighteenth centuries the 'trades' were very powerful. Venice was the Golden Door between the east (Istanbul & Constantinople) and west. The city was unified into Italy in the late eighteenth century.
All of our guides have had such obvious pride in their respective histories! They are the right person for their jobs! Also, we have been blessed with spectacular weather all during the trip. Several raindrops fell one day, on the bus windshield. Other than that, the days were sunny, temperature in the mid 70's F.
Venice, Oh, Venice!! The last time I saw you I didn't want to leave you! Today I'm thrilled to be back and wander the dark, narrow passageways they dare to name 'struts.'
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| Our first view of the Venice islands. Our bus parks because motorized vehicles with wheels are not allowed in the city of Venice. |
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| With the rest of our group, Theresa (left) and I take the ferryboat ride to Venice. Elianora is sitting directly behind us. |
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| Arched bridges everywhere in Venice! (arched to accommodate gondolas passing underneath). |
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| St. Mark's Cathedral, Venice. |
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| Across from St. Mark's Cathedral is the tall Baptistry tower. It was closed today. |
When I've talked about Venice, I'm always asked, "Were you there when it was flooded?" The answers are, "No (for ten years ago)," and "No (for this trip)." The islands are slowly and steadily sinking. More frequently every year, elevated platforms are installed around the perimeter of St. Mark's Square so pedestrians may walk about when it's flooded. We walk around the crowded square and Elianora gives us a tour of St. Marks Cathedral.
The remains of St. Mark the Evangelist are in the church. St. Mark was killed in Alexandria, Egypt, but the Venetians stole the relics and brought the body back to Venice hundreds of years ago. The lion is the symbol of St. Mark; it is seen everywhere in the city. There are 120 churches in Venice.
St. Mark's church has heavy Moorish influence. All the marble came from Constantinople; this is totally different from the Italian tradition. The layout, or floor plan, of the basilica, is in the shape of a Greek cross, with all four 'arms' equal in length.
Elianora dismisses us for free time and makes sure we all know where to meet to catch the ferry later. Theresa and I shop, take a light lunch from a street vendor and sit on the steps of the lagoon to eat it. Many of us take gondola rides. We were all SO looking forward to this!
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| Our hard-working Gondelier. |
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| It is fun seeing the city from the middle of the Grand Canal! |
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| Church across the canal from the main city of Venice. |
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| We head into one of the many narrow canals. |
Another question I'm always asked about Venice, "Did it smell?" The answer is, "No, just a very faint smell of seawater." Every place is extremely clean in Venice. No trash in the water, no trash evident on the sidewalk passages. No graffiti. The Venetians definitely take a lot of pride in their city. Elianora says that there are now only 56,000 residents of Venice. It is very expensive to live there. (I'd like to try to live there, for a time!)
Venice is considered the safest city in Europe, maybe the world! The reason: even residents of the city have a hard time figuring out all the 'streets,' some so narrow a person could extend their arms and touch the buildings on both sides. There are many 'dead-ends,' another barrier to a quick escape for criminals. We are told to be aware of the usual big-city pickpockets, but other than that, there is very little crime.
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| We love all the old homes. |
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| This is a pleasant journey through the canals. |
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| It's so fun passing under all these arched bridges! |
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| One of twin white lighthouses on a nearby island. |
Our day in the Fairytale City of Venice was over too quickly! We met our group at the prescribed time, ferried back to the bus, and motored back to our hotel in Florence. On the way back, we enjoyed another fabulous Italian dinner at a busy pub. In the bus, Elianora put in a CD of Italian tenor vocals. I think it was the most pleasant ride home I may have ever experienced!
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
Fairytale Village #2: (Day 11, Thursday, October 31, 2013)
Our large group enjoyed an early breakfast on the rooftop garden dining room, brought down our stuffed suitcases to the bus, and boarded for a most leisurely journey through the scenic Italian countryside. First destination today: the village of Assisi!
Along the way, Elianora gave us some geographical information about Italy. The country is 850 miles long and 150 miles wide, in the shape of a boot. We were to pass through five of the regions of Italy; of these, only Umbria is land-locked. We leave from Rome, in the region Lazio. The next province is Umbria. Tonight we will stay in the city of Florence, in the famed region of Tuscany. On our way to Venice, in the region of Veneto, we will pass through the region of Emilia romagna and have Elianora's favorite dinner in a restaurant near the city of Bologna. Our farthest north destination this week is Venice.
BTW, Rome's highways are just as fine as are our Interstates in America, four to six lanes wide, divided. There is less construction. Traffic usually moves along at a good pace. Gasoline was 1.60 euros per liter, approximately $8.50 per gallon. There are large rest areas at comfortable distances.
On our pleasant journey north, we notice many herds of tan sheep grazing, quite a lot of silver-green olive tree groves, several cornfields, castle ruins on the tops of hills, railroad tracks, and narrow, meandering, shining rivers.
Assisi is due north of Rome, midway between Rome and Florence. It is the birthplace of St. Francis of Assisi, a saint beloved in several Christian religions. The main church, the Papal Basilica of St. Francis is on a large hill, and is most impressive to approach from the road below.
Along the way, Elianora gave us some geographical information about Italy. The country is 850 miles long and 150 miles wide, in the shape of a boot. We were to pass through five of the regions of Italy; of these, only Umbria is land-locked. We leave from Rome, in the region Lazio. The next province is Umbria. Tonight we will stay in the city of Florence, in the famed region of Tuscany. On our way to Venice, in the region of Veneto, we will pass through the region of Emilia romagna and have Elianora's favorite dinner in a restaurant near the city of Bologna. Our farthest north destination this week is Venice.
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| The Italian countryside north of Rome is an agricultural land of rolling hills dotted with small towns. |
BTW, Rome's highways are just as fine as are our Interstates in America, four to six lanes wide, divided. There is less construction. Traffic usually moves along at a good pace. Gasoline was 1.60 euros per liter, approximately $8.50 per gallon. There are large rest areas at comfortable distances.
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| Most of the houses in rural areas have red or brown tiled roofs, are constructed of stucco and painted in soft cream or yellow. Only several times did we see brightly colored homes. There are extensive vineyards, then there are the numerous small family vineyards close to homes, all perfectly kept. |
Assisi is due north of Rome, midway between Rome and Florence. It is the birthplace of St. Francis of Assisi, a saint beloved in several Christian religions. The main church, the Papal Basilica of St. Francis is on a large hill, and is most impressive to approach from the road below.
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| St. Francis Basilica Church in Assisi, Italy |
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| We are treated to a wide view of the valley below Assisi. |
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| Main gate to the village of Assisi. We have ample time to explore the narrow, steep, and winding streets. |
Theresa and I find a small restaurant and have slices of pizza. The Italian pizza only faintly resembles the American style. Ours is drowning in fat and cheese. Theirs always has a very thin crust, lots of veggies of your choice with a small amount of cheese. No wonder there are few fat Italians! We shop and shop. The stores are all unique and family-owned. One store has many Christmas items. The sole shopkeeper is busy with his one-month-old baby and his dog. He tells us he is 'watching my wife's shop for a few minutes.' I buy an angel for my Christmas tree.
We separate because I want to find St. Clare's church. With my 'get lost' genes, of course, I get lost, end up buying a map of the town at a parking garage vending machine for a 25-euro coin, and end up at St. Clare's church where there are other members from our group.
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| Entrance to St. Clare's church. St. Francis helped Clare found an order (group) of Sisters following his rule. |
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| St. Clare's Church. |
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| Assisi's hospital! |
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| The pastries are certainly tempting! |
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| We meet at the Basilica's entrance to begin our tour, guided by Elianora. |
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| Crucifix of St. Francis. The upper church walls and ceilings are covered with wonderful frescoes. |
Our daily Mass today is held in a side chapel of the main St. Francis church. This is very special. Several local people and tourists join us. Then we find our bus (a blessed haven when you're tired from walking and climbing hills all afternoon!) and push onward to our new hotel in Florence. We have yet another memorable dinner at a large family restaurant. The very small, very old grandmother who has hand-made the pasta comes out to meet us!
The farther north we travel, the more the hills turn into mountains. There are very long tunnels on our way. When I was in Assisi, I found myself absent-mindedly thinking of ways that I might live there permanently. . .I've heard of ex-pats having their Social Security checks sent abroad. . .maybe I could learn a few words in Italian. . .I really wouldn't need a big place. . .oh, but, I'd miss my family too much. . .guess I'll have to leave today. . .but I want to come back to this delightful fairytale village!
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