The readers of this blog deserve to know why they haven't seen anything new for several days! I have been reading the longest article I've seen so far in the National Geographic Magazine! It is 102 pages long. The topic is the city of Washington, D.C., and it's been extremely interesting to see how the various departments of government have developed. The photos are stunning! Some of the places I remember from previous visits, in person. Tomorrow, I hope to report on this November, 1931, article, hopefully! Thanks for your patience!
Of course, I invite you to entertain yourself with my other blog on Relationships, www.stoptwistedlove.blogspot.com!
Sincerely,
Jan
Wednesday, January 22, 2014
Friday, January 17, 2014
The World in a Circus
Before I-phones, I-pads, TVs, DVDs, and talking movies was the CIRCUS! I hope you've experienced a circus at least once in your life. When I was 7 years old in Norfolk, Virginia, USA, my dad took me to a circus at the local indoor arena. I still remember the beautifully costumed women dangling from a rope hanging and doing acrobatics upside down. I was mesmerized by the trapeze artists, seemingly barely missing the bar and tumbling high into the air. There are so many other performers in a circus: the clowns, the equestriennes, cowboys, animal trainers, to mention several. Many support staff are required, executives, laborers, cooks, etc.
"Circus people receive a geographical education that might well be the envy of every one interested in broadening his mental horizon. The big show covers thousands of miles in a single season visiting areas of States and frequently foreign cities," ("The Land of Sawdust and Spangles - A World in Miniature," Francis Beverly Kelley, National Geographic Magazine, October, 1931, p. 463).
Apparently in 1931, the circus was much bigger than we can imagine now. In addition to the performing lions, tigers, horses, bears, and, of course, the elephants, there must have been animals on exhibition. Ms. Kelley lists "Under a single spread of canvas are gathered hundreds of animals and birds," (p. 463) leopards, giraffes, deer, antelope, tapirs, polar bears, hippopotamuses, monkeys, llamas, pumas, macaws, sea-lions, sea-elephants, rhinoceros, hyenas, camels, zebras, water buffaloes, kangaroos, and zebras.
FYI: Elephants: "It is not true that they never forget although elephants do have good memories; also, they do not live to a phenomenal age. The elephant's span of years is about that of a man. Some of them live to exceed the century mark" (pp. 470-471).
In 1931, the Circus was definitely a big business that could expect 2 million customers in one season. The circus didn't travel in winter but stayed mostly either in Indiana or Florida. "The largest circus carries its own doctor, lawyers, detectives, barber shop, blacksmith shop, fire department, chefs, business experts, and postal service, and it travels on 100 railroad cars in four sections" (p. 476). There were many competing circuses. The Ringling Brothers circus and the Barnum circus were mentioned as major circuses.
"Circus exhibition in the United States had its beginning in 1785. . . Circuses were not presented under canvas until 1826, and the combination of performance and wild animal menangerie did not enter the picture until 1851. . . Canvas inclosure (tents) . . . served to hide the circus from those who had not paid admission . . . Even today nearly all European circuses and those of other continents present their programs in a single ring and travel overland, clinging to the traditions of another generation" (p. 478). In America, we like to think big: railroad travel of circuses began in earnest in 1872.
In 1931, the Ringling Brothers circus erected a big top tent "large enough to accommodate 15,000 spectators at one time" (p. 478).
FYI: Camels: "Whether one- or 2-humped, members of the camel family have double-barreled tempers, swivel joints permitting kicking in any direction, and no sense of humor" (photo caption, p. 484).
Let's not forget the midway, or side show. For a small fee, one could marvel at "freaks," the giant tall man and the midget, bearded ladies, armless wonders, sword swallowers, super-fat ladies, snake charmers, the tatooed lady, fire-eaters, the human cannon ball, and other wonders. Missing from this account of the midway was the many rides, such as the ferris wheel which are still in amusement parks and county fairs today. Perhaps those attractions came at a later date.
FYI: Midgets: "The smallest man on exhibition anywhere is Major Mite, and he does credit to his stage name. His height is less than 30 inches and he weighs about 25 pounds. He has a brother who is 6 feet tall, and his parents were normal height" (p. 487).
Have you seen movies in which a circus parades through the Main Street of a town before the performance? Ms. Kelley reports that in 1931, due to the busy motorcar traffic, this practice was no longer followed.
FYI: Languages: Do we truly think America is bilingual in English and Spanish now? In 1931, "The flaming circus lithographs (posters) that herald the approach of the spangled caravan must be printed in several different languages in a number of places: posters with Hebrew lettering in New York City's Jewish districts, Italian in both New York City and Chicago, French in parts of Montreal and Quebec, and Spanish in certain Southwestern cities" (p. 496).
Have you seen trapeze artists skillfully jump from one swing to the next and back again? "It is frequently 20 degrees hotter directly under the canvas top than on the ground" (p. 512).
Even a deaf person could enjoy a circus because there are very few words spoken, usually those of the Ring Master, the announcer.
Here's a story to end this report of circus entertainment: "Johnny Patterson, famous Irish clown, lay dying in a dressing tent. The physician who attended him tried to cheer him up and upon leaving, said, "Goodnight, Patterson. I will see you in the morning." A smile flickered across the old clown's face. "I know you will, doctor," he replied, "but will I see you?" (p. 516).
Seriously, this was a long article, 52 pages long. I had intended to take at least 2 days to read it. But it was so engaging, once I started, I had to finish and ended up having a late supper tonight!
"Circus people receive a geographical education that might well be the envy of every one interested in broadening his mental horizon. The big show covers thousands of miles in a single season visiting areas of States and frequently foreign cities," ("The Land of Sawdust and Spangles - A World in Miniature," Francis Beverly Kelley, National Geographic Magazine, October, 1931, p. 463).
Apparently in 1931, the circus was much bigger than we can imagine now. In addition to the performing lions, tigers, horses, bears, and, of course, the elephants, there must have been animals on exhibition. Ms. Kelley lists "Under a single spread of canvas are gathered hundreds of animals and birds," (p. 463) leopards, giraffes, deer, antelope, tapirs, polar bears, hippopotamuses, monkeys, llamas, pumas, macaws, sea-lions, sea-elephants, rhinoceros, hyenas, camels, zebras, water buffaloes, kangaroos, and zebras.
FYI: Elephants: "It is not true that they never forget although elephants do have good memories; also, they do not live to a phenomenal age. The elephant's span of years is about that of a man. Some of them live to exceed the century mark" (pp. 470-471).
In 1931, the Circus was definitely a big business that could expect 2 million customers in one season. The circus didn't travel in winter but stayed mostly either in Indiana or Florida. "The largest circus carries its own doctor, lawyers, detectives, barber shop, blacksmith shop, fire department, chefs, business experts, and postal service, and it travels on 100 railroad cars in four sections" (p. 476). There were many competing circuses. The Ringling Brothers circus and the Barnum circus were mentioned as major circuses.
"Circus exhibition in the United States had its beginning in 1785. . . Circuses were not presented under canvas until 1826, and the combination of performance and wild animal menangerie did not enter the picture until 1851. . . Canvas inclosure (tents) . . . served to hide the circus from those who had not paid admission . . . Even today nearly all European circuses and those of other continents present their programs in a single ring and travel overland, clinging to the traditions of another generation" (p. 478). In America, we like to think big: railroad travel of circuses began in earnest in 1872.
In 1931, the Ringling Brothers circus erected a big top tent "large enough to accommodate 15,000 spectators at one time" (p. 478).
FYI: Camels: "Whether one- or 2-humped, members of the camel family have double-barreled tempers, swivel joints permitting kicking in any direction, and no sense of humor" (photo caption, p. 484).
Let's not forget the midway, or side show. For a small fee, one could marvel at "freaks," the giant tall man and the midget, bearded ladies, armless wonders, sword swallowers, super-fat ladies, snake charmers, the tatooed lady, fire-eaters, the human cannon ball, and other wonders. Missing from this account of the midway was the many rides, such as the ferris wheel which are still in amusement parks and county fairs today. Perhaps those attractions came at a later date.
FYI: Midgets: "The smallest man on exhibition anywhere is Major Mite, and he does credit to his stage name. His height is less than 30 inches and he weighs about 25 pounds. He has a brother who is 6 feet tall, and his parents were normal height" (p. 487).
Have you seen movies in which a circus parades through the Main Street of a town before the performance? Ms. Kelley reports that in 1931, due to the busy motorcar traffic, this practice was no longer followed.
FYI: Languages: Do we truly think America is bilingual in English and Spanish now? In 1931, "The flaming circus lithographs (posters) that herald the approach of the spangled caravan must be printed in several different languages in a number of places: posters with Hebrew lettering in New York City's Jewish districts, Italian in both New York City and Chicago, French in parts of Montreal and Quebec, and Spanish in certain Southwestern cities" (p. 496).
Have you seen trapeze artists skillfully jump from one swing to the next and back again? "It is frequently 20 degrees hotter directly under the canvas top than on the ground" (p. 512).
Even a deaf person could enjoy a circus because there are very few words spoken, usually those of the Ring Master, the announcer.
Here's a story to end this report of circus entertainment: "Johnny Patterson, famous Irish clown, lay dying in a dressing tent. The physician who attended him tried to cheer him up and upon leaving, said, "Goodnight, Patterson. I will see you in the morning." A smile flickered across the old clown's face. "I know you will, doctor," he replied, "but will I see you?" (p. 516).
Seriously, this was a long article, 52 pages long. I had intended to take at least 2 days to read it. But it was so engaging, once I started, I had to finish and ended up having a late supper tonight!
Thursday, January 16, 2014
Burma's Land of Temples
Mr. William H. Roberts was on a quest to visit ancient Buddhist temples in the country of Burma in 1931. This country is now called Myanmar; it is in southeast Asia, south of China, west of Thailand and Laos, and east of India and Bangladesh. "The 5,000 Temples of Pagan: Burma's Sacred City is a Place of Enchantment in the Midst of Ruins," National Geographic Magazine, October, 1931, is his account of that journey.
He writes, "As soon as one has surmounted the slope (in Mandalay, the ancient capital), he finds himself in the midst of a veritable forest of temples and pagodas, large and small, nearly perfect or almost unrecognizable because of decay" (p. 445). The largest and most beautiful is the Anada, all white with a 168-foot tall golden spire: "Some 1,500 plaques of tile, arranged in bands around the exterior walls of the four terraces of this matchless temple, depict scenes connected with Buddhist ceremonial" (photo caption, p. 445).
The temples lie "for eight miles along the (Irrawaddy) river bank and extend. . . two miles inland. . . and the very ground is so thickly covered with the crumbling remnants of ancient shrines that . . . it is impossible to move hand or foot without touching a sacred object" (photo caption, p. 447).
Mr. Roberts tells of many legends about the builders of these temples, many approximately 1,000 years old. There is a colorful 8-page section of photos of the native costumes. The author is very impressed with the beauty and religious nature of the temples, "As the swift steamer of modern science bears one away from this scene of vanished glory, solemn and lofty feelings come crowding upon the heart" (p. 454).
He writes, "As soon as one has surmounted the slope (in Mandalay, the ancient capital), he finds himself in the midst of a veritable forest of temples and pagodas, large and small, nearly perfect or almost unrecognizable because of decay" (p. 445). The largest and most beautiful is the Anada, all white with a 168-foot tall golden spire: "Some 1,500 plaques of tile, arranged in bands around the exterior walls of the four terraces of this matchless temple, depict scenes connected with Buddhist ceremonial" (photo caption, p. 445).
The temples lie "for eight miles along the (Irrawaddy) river bank and extend. . . two miles inland. . . and the very ground is so thickly covered with the crumbling remnants of ancient shrines that . . . it is impossible to move hand or foot without touching a sacred object" (photo caption, p. 447).
Mr. Roberts tells of many legends about the builders of these temples, many approximately 1,000 years old. There is a colorful 8-page section of photos of the native costumes. The author is very impressed with the beauty and religious nature of the temples, "As the swift steamer of modern science bears one away from this scene of vanished glory, solemn and lofty feelings come crowding upon the heart" (p. 454).
Tuesday, January 14, 2014
The Original ATVs
OMG! (Oh, my gosh!) More names of places I have to google to discover where in the world they are located before I finish the first two paragraphs of the next National Geographic Magazine article: Srinagar (a district in Kashmir, India), Kashgar (a city in Chinese Turkestan) and Pamir (mountains on the Afghanistan border). This article chronicles an automobile expedition of two separate groups. The author, Mr. Maynard Owen Williams, Litt.D., titles the article, "The Citroen Trans-Asiatic Expedition Reaches Kasmir: Scientific Party Led by Georges-Marie Haardt Successfully Crosses Syria, Iraq, Persia, and Afghanistan to Arrive at the Pamir."
This was such a massive undertaking in 1931 that a prior issue of National Geographic Magazine detailed preparations for the trip (see this blog, Saturday, December 28, 2013: "Getting Ready for a BIG trip!). A caravan of 'cars' left Beyrouth, Syria, (present-day Beirut, Lebanon) on April 4, 1931. It was to proceed east over desert and mountains (hardly any roads, any place!) and meet in Kashgar with another motorcade which started from the Asian Pacific coast.
The lofty goals of this journey were: "To study this interesting old continent; to follow pilgrim and trade routes older than idols or money; to record the sights and sounds of the changing East by methods unavailable to former expeditions, to share our results with millions" (p. 392). The motorcars resembled the American Model-T Ford trucks in the front and military tanks with treads in the rear. They were equipped to travel on all terrains.
As the cars were bulky and slow, the occupants could see desert life, primitive except for that of the sheiks. "Hurdling a rise in the desert, we suddenly saw Khaqin (Persia), with a wide bridge crossing an unexpected river, with women in bright colors doing their laundry in the muddy water, and storks perched on little mud houses set among the slanting palms" (p. 402).
The troupe at last saw some "great green valleys tucked in between barren hills . . . springtime Persia (modern Iraq) is a lovely land" (p. 403). Automobiles were strictly a luxury among the wealthy; the common folk traveled by camel, donkey, and horses, or super-crowded "motorbuses." There were great herds of sheep scattered over the countryside.
Mr. Williams was the only American in the motor caravan. He particularly appreciated the ancient forts and ruins. These cultural opportunities were everywhere, particularly in Teheran, Persia. "Tak-i-bosson artists carved these reliefs thirteen centuries ago" (photo caption, p. 410).
The further East the seven-car calvacade proceeded, the more their group was a novelty to the natives. "We are as good as a circus. Our creeping cars demand attention. Our dress is noticeable from afar. When I use a large, shiny camera, perched on a tripod as high as my chin, and dodge in and out of a sheetlike focusing cloth, it is little wonder that folk who never saw such an instrument come running" (p. 419).
In Afghanistan there were poppy fields everywhere. I found it interesting, yet sad, reading about Helmand province, where my nephew, Justin was killed in 2008 by an IED. Justin was an American/Irishman, formerly U.S. Navy, in the Irish regiment of the Royal British Army at the time of his death. The Afghan language is called "Pushto;" Justin learned it, hoping to help the Afghan children.
Even in the desert were scattered garages, "service stations" for the new motorcars. Thus far, the great majority of peoples were Mohammedans. Mosques of varying sizes were found in every city and town.
In 1931, a modern section of Kabul, Afghanistan, was being built along side of the ancient city. Mr. Williams writes, "On a wind-swept hill commanding magnificent views of this fertile plain, we were entertained in a country home which now belongs to the municipality" (p. 428). It seemed that everywhere the motor-caravan went, they were royally treated. He observed, "The women of Afghanistan are kept in more rigid seclusion and are more closely veiled than those of any other Moslem land" (photo caption, p. 429).
The explorers took many side trips to see local sites of interest. Close to Kabul was Bamian, "first century center of artistic and commercial influences reaching far into Iran, India, and Central Asia" (p. 428). "The two colossal Buddhas, 175 and 116 feet high, are crude and lifeless. . . Climbing about in the interior of the cliffs, nudging around rock shoulders high above the ground, mounting the stairways that lead to the heads of the colossi . . all this is a thrilling and unusual experience" (p. 431).
Mr. Williams also appreciated the beauty of the land: "Not since leaving Beyrouth (Beirut), our starting point, had we seen anything so fine" (p. 432).
As always, river crossings were generally challenging to accomplish with their heavy vehicles and equipment. Williams writes, "Deep and swift were the Afghanistan streams, which presented the most difficult problems of the 3,500-mile trek from Beyrouth to Srinagar; but generous and whole-hearted native cooperation enabled the Expedition to overcome such hazards without casualty to motor cars or personnel" (photo caption, p. 433).
There was a complex political situation in the Middle East in 1931. It appeared that the places the caravan visited so far were all ruled officially by the French although the local sheiks and shahs ruled in lesser matters. Yet there was peace.
"The Afghan King was genuinely grateful for the kind treatment he received in France . . . His majesty spoke enthusiastically about America: "I hope many Americans will visit Afghanistan, where they will be made most welcome" (p. 437-438). "The hour we spent with the king . . . was the climax of a month's uninterrupted hospitality" (p. 438).
Next the tour passed through the North Gate into India, under British control. "The British tried to outdo one another in honoring and entertaining us" (p. 438). So, life "on the road" was not all unbearable heat, hardships and deprivation! "And so we passed Taxila and Rawalpindi and came to Srinagar, 3,445 miles, 53 stages, and 81 days from Beyrouth" (p. 439).
This was such a massive undertaking in 1931 that a prior issue of National Geographic Magazine detailed preparations for the trip (see this blog, Saturday, December 28, 2013: "Getting Ready for a BIG trip!). A caravan of 'cars' left Beyrouth, Syria, (present-day Beirut, Lebanon) on April 4, 1931. It was to proceed east over desert and mountains (hardly any roads, any place!) and meet in Kashgar with another motorcade which started from the Asian Pacific coast.
The lofty goals of this journey were: "To study this interesting old continent; to follow pilgrim and trade routes older than idols or money; to record the sights and sounds of the changing East by methods unavailable to former expeditions, to share our results with millions" (p. 392). The motorcars resembled the American Model-T Ford trucks in the front and military tanks with treads in the rear. They were equipped to travel on all terrains.
As the cars were bulky and slow, the occupants could see desert life, primitive except for that of the sheiks. "Hurdling a rise in the desert, we suddenly saw Khaqin (Persia), with a wide bridge crossing an unexpected river, with women in bright colors doing their laundry in the muddy water, and storks perched on little mud houses set among the slanting palms" (p. 402).
The troupe at last saw some "great green valleys tucked in between barren hills . . . springtime Persia (modern Iraq) is a lovely land" (p. 403). Automobiles were strictly a luxury among the wealthy; the common folk traveled by camel, donkey, and horses, or super-crowded "motorbuses." There were great herds of sheep scattered over the countryside.
Mr. Williams was the only American in the motor caravan. He particularly appreciated the ancient forts and ruins. These cultural opportunities were everywhere, particularly in Teheran, Persia. "Tak-i-bosson artists carved these reliefs thirteen centuries ago" (photo caption, p. 410).
The further East the seven-car calvacade proceeded, the more their group was a novelty to the natives. "We are as good as a circus. Our creeping cars demand attention. Our dress is noticeable from afar. When I use a large, shiny camera, perched on a tripod as high as my chin, and dodge in and out of a sheetlike focusing cloth, it is little wonder that folk who never saw such an instrument come running" (p. 419).
In Afghanistan there were poppy fields everywhere. I found it interesting, yet sad, reading about Helmand province, where my nephew, Justin was killed in 2008 by an IED. Justin was an American/Irishman, formerly U.S. Navy, in the Irish regiment of the Royal British Army at the time of his death. The Afghan language is called "Pushto;" Justin learned it, hoping to help the Afghan children.
Even in the desert were scattered garages, "service stations" for the new motorcars. Thus far, the great majority of peoples were Mohammedans. Mosques of varying sizes were found in every city and town.
In 1931, a modern section of Kabul, Afghanistan, was being built along side of the ancient city. Mr. Williams writes, "On a wind-swept hill commanding magnificent views of this fertile plain, we were entertained in a country home which now belongs to the municipality" (p. 428). It seemed that everywhere the motor-caravan went, they were royally treated. He observed, "The women of Afghanistan are kept in more rigid seclusion and are more closely veiled than those of any other Moslem land" (photo caption, p. 429).
The explorers took many side trips to see local sites of interest. Close to Kabul was Bamian, "first century center of artistic and commercial influences reaching far into Iran, India, and Central Asia" (p. 428). "The two colossal Buddhas, 175 and 116 feet high, are crude and lifeless. . . Climbing about in the interior of the cliffs, nudging around rock shoulders high above the ground, mounting the stairways that lead to the heads of the colossi . . all this is a thrilling and unusual experience" (p. 431).
Mr. Williams also appreciated the beauty of the land: "Not since leaving Beyrouth (Beirut), our starting point, had we seen anything so fine" (p. 432).
As always, river crossings were generally challenging to accomplish with their heavy vehicles and equipment. Williams writes, "Deep and swift were the Afghanistan streams, which presented the most difficult problems of the 3,500-mile trek from Beyrouth to Srinagar; but generous and whole-hearted native cooperation enabled the Expedition to overcome such hazards without casualty to motor cars or personnel" (photo caption, p. 433).
There was a complex political situation in the Middle East in 1931. It appeared that the places the caravan visited so far were all ruled officially by the French although the local sheiks and shahs ruled in lesser matters. Yet there was peace.
"The Afghan King was genuinely grateful for the kind treatment he received in France . . . His majesty spoke enthusiastically about America: "I hope many Americans will visit Afghanistan, where they will be made most welcome" (p. 437-438). "The hour we spent with the king . . . was the climax of a month's uninterrupted hospitality" (p. 438).
Next the tour passed through the North Gate into India, under British control. "The British tried to outdo one another in honoring and entertaining us" (p. 438). So, life "on the road" was not all unbearable heat, hardships and deprivation! "And so we passed Taxila and Rawalpindi and came to Srinagar, 3,445 miles, 53 stages, and 81 days from Beyrouth" (p. 439).
Saturday, January 11, 2014
Sailing Forbidden Coasts
Before the 1930's, American women must have been ultra-protected, even isolated as fragile creatures. You know, "The woman's place is in the home." In this last article in the September, 1931, issue of National Geographic Magazine, the independent, fearless, New American woman is evident. Ida Treat yearned to visit the coast of Dankali, in the country of French Somaliland, in northeast Africa, south of Ethiopia and Eritrea, opposite Arabia across the Red Sea. Even today I would ponder carefully if it was safe to venture in that troubled part of our world.
Ms. Treat was told outright, "You will never get permission to touch anywhere on the Dankali coast. With the exception of Oback, perhaps, it has been taboo for years." "But that is where I want to go," I (Ms. Treat) protested. "And that is where I (the captain of a sailing ship) intend to take you. Only you will have to travel as contraband. If you were a man, it would not be so easy. . . they are not used to ladies embarking on any such wild cruise. . . So don't worry. You will slip through the hands of my official countrymen like a letter in the mail," ("Sailing Forbidden Coasts," p. 357).
The author and the Captain were making these plans in the European town of Djbouti, French Somaliland, in a car heading to the Somali coast along the Indian Ocean. Of course, Ms. Treat asked, "Why is the Dankali coast taboo?" and the Captain answered, "Oh, for a lot of reasons. Chiefly because the Dankali have a deep rooted aversion to white skins. And a nervous hand on the trigger. They have never taken kindly to colonizing" (p. 357).
Once aboard the Captain's sailboat, the Altair, Ms. Treat was disguised in a sailor's uniform. They sailed overnight to reach the Dankali coast and dropped anchor at the village of Oback. The supplies they brought for trade were taken ashore. In the evening, Ms. Treat was led through the streets. Her feet and hands were stained deep red with henna and she was dressed like an Arab woman. "That is in case we go ashore at Tadjoura," the Captain of the Altair explained. "Not even I would care to land there with a European. In that costume you will shock no one. They will take you for an Arab, a fitting companion for a Mohammedan of my importance" (p. 365). The Captain, Ms. Treat, and sailors returned to their boat.
They skirted the coast and stopped near beaches several times to pick up bird eggs and other food. At last they reached Tadjoura, the Dankali capital. The Captain, Ms. Treat, together with two crewmen with rifles, proceeded after landing, up the beach and through the town. Ms. Treat was impressed with the perfect cleanliness in evidence, "none of the cluttered filth of European towns." At last, "Toward the outskirts of the town we turned into a gate that opened on a courtyard vaster than any I had yet seen and white with a layer of tiny shells" (p. 376).
In this Arab nation, incense was used everywhere to ward off the "dread jinn, those children of the devil . . . who are responsible for all the ills and misfortunes in this world" (p. 376). Ms. Treat heard drums and screams of women and was told about the Zar tradition in which once a year young married women dance all night until almost in a state of collapse. This guards against infertility and pregnancy problems.
There were several French officials, the only whites in the town. They were tolerated but even spat upon by the children. "I begun to understand why French officials preferred that no white man, unless escorted by colonial troops, should land on the coast of the Dankali country" (p. 378). They left Tadjoura that night.
When the Altair retraced its route along the coast and returned again to Dankali, Ms. Treat learned from an important Sheik, friend of the Captain, several reasons why the white race was so hated. First, the white interfered with their long-standing slave trading; secondly, they felt that white men would not honor their pledges.
The Sheik was concerned for the safety of the Captain, crew, and passenger due to pirates killing a ship crew within the past week. Sheik Abd el Hai spoke, "And with Madame on board. . . there is only one man who can assure your safety . . . myself. I will go with you" (p. 386). Ms. Treat was safe on the rest of her exciting, adventurous, dangerous journey.
Ms. Treat was told outright, "You will never get permission to touch anywhere on the Dankali coast. With the exception of Oback, perhaps, it has been taboo for years." "But that is where I want to go," I (Ms. Treat) protested. "And that is where I (the captain of a sailing ship) intend to take you. Only you will have to travel as contraband. If you were a man, it would not be so easy. . . they are not used to ladies embarking on any such wild cruise. . . So don't worry. You will slip through the hands of my official countrymen like a letter in the mail," ("Sailing Forbidden Coasts," p. 357).
The author and the Captain were making these plans in the European town of Djbouti, French Somaliland, in a car heading to the Somali coast along the Indian Ocean. Of course, Ms. Treat asked, "Why is the Dankali coast taboo?" and the Captain answered, "Oh, for a lot of reasons. Chiefly because the Dankali have a deep rooted aversion to white skins. And a nervous hand on the trigger. They have never taken kindly to colonizing" (p. 357).
Once aboard the Captain's sailboat, the Altair, Ms. Treat was disguised in a sailor's uniform. They sailed overnight to reach the Dankali coast and dropped anchor at the village of Oback. The supplies they brought for trade were taken ashore. In the evening, Ms. Treat was led through the streets. Her feet and hands were stained deep red with henna and she was dressed like an Arab woman. "That is in case we go ashore at Tadjoura," the Captain of the Altair explained. "Not even I would care to land there with a European. In that costume you will shock no one. They will take you for an Arab, a fitting companion for a Mohammedan of my importance" (p. 365). The Captain, Ms. Treat, and sailors returned to their boat.
They skirted the coast and stopped near beaches several times to pick up bird eggs and other food. At last they reached Tadjoura, the Dankali capital. The Captain, Ms. Treat, together with two crewmen with rifles, proceeded after landing, up the beach and through the town. Ms. Treat was impressed with the perfect cleanliness in evidence, "none of the cluttered filth of European towns." At last, "Toward the outskirts of the town we turned into a gate that opened on a courtyard vaster than any I had yet seen and white with a layer of tiny shells" (p. 376).
In this Arab nation, incense was used everywhere to ward off the "dread jinn, those children of the devil . . . who are responsible for all the ills and misfortunes in this world" (p. 376). Ms. Treat heard drums and screams of women and was told about the Zar tradition in which once a year young married women dance all night until almost in a state of collapse. This guards against infertility and pregnancy problems.
There were several French officials, the only whites in the town. They were tolerated but even spat upon by the children. "I begun to understand why French officials preferred that no white man, unless escorted by colonial troops, should land on the coast of the Dankali country" (p. 378). They left Tadjoura that night.
When the Altair retraced its route along the coast and returned again to Dankali, Ms. Treat learned from an important Sheik, friend of the Captain, several reasons why the white race was so hated. First, the white interfered with their long-standing slave trading; secondly, they felt that white men would not honor their pledges.
The Sheik was concerned for the safety of the Captain, crew, and passenger due to pirates killing a ship crew within the past week. Sheik Abd el Hai spoke, "And with Madame on board. . . there is only one man who can assure your safety . . . myself. I will go with you" (p. 386). Ms. Treat was safe on the rest of her exciting, adventurous, dangerous journey.
Friday, January 10, 2014
Hanging Fork Creek and Deer Tracks
Oh, dear, I was almost finished with "Hanging Fork Creek and Deer Tracks" when I noticed it was NOT on this, my travel blog, but on www.stoptwistedlove.blogspot.com, my relationship blog! I'm pleasantly tired from a lot of walking and driving today. Please go to the other blog to see my fun day trip today. Thanks!!
Thursday, January 9, 2014
Cute Bears
One feature of the National Geographic Magazine I particularly enjoy is their articles about animals from time to time. Who doesn't love teddy bears! "Koalas are sloth-like creatures about two feet tall, tailless, and dressed in a coat of thick, grayish fur," ("The Koala, or Australian Teddy Bear," F. Lewis, September, 1931, photo caption, p. 347). "They were probably one of the most common animals in the Australian bush, but about forty years ago a widespread epidemic overtook them and they died by the thousands" (p. 346).
Similar to the panda bears of China, these fluffy fellows have a diet consisting of leaves from certain eucalyptus trees. With their clawed five-toed feet, they can climb nearly everything and especially love flagpoles.
Like Australia's kangaroos, koalas are marsupial animals; the young koala cubs (called 'Joeys') are carried in their mothers' pouches for six to ten months. "They are very easily tamed, and when captured as cubs speedily become attached to their owners and follow them about much as a puppy would" (photo caption, p. 352). The government of Victoria province in Australia forbade their capture in 1931.
"Koalas are, as a rule, silent, but when frightened or annoyed will cry very much like a child" (p. 355). In 1931, only the San Diego, California Zoo in America could provide the specialized diet of the koala bear. In 2014, there are eight United States zoos that keep koalas.
Similar to the panda bears of China, these fluffy fellows have a diet consisting of leaves from certain eucalyptus trees. With their clawed five-toed feet, they can climb nearly everything and especially love flagpoles.
Like Australia's kangaroos, koalas are marsupial animals; the young koala cubs (called 'Joeys') are carried in their mothers' pouches for six to ten months. "They are very easily tamed, and when captured as cubs speedily become attached to their owners and follow them about much as a puppy would" (photo caption, p. 352). The government of Victoria province in Australia forbade their capture in 1931.
"Koalas are, as a rule, silent, but when frightened or annoyed will cry very much like a child" (p. 355). In 1931, only the San Diego, California Zoo in America could provide the specialized diet of the koala bear. In 2014, there are eight United States zoos that keep koalas.
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