OMG! (Oh, my gosh!) More names of places I have to google to discover where in the world they are located before I finish the first two paragraphs of the next National Geographic Magazine article: Srinagar (a district in Kashmir, India), Kashgar (a city in Chinese Turkestan) and Pamir (mountains on the Afghanistan border). This article chronicles an automobile expedition of two separate groups. The author, Mr. Maynard Owen Williams, Litt.D., titles the article, "The Citroen Trans-Asiatic Expedition Reaches Kasmir: Scientific Party Led by Georges-Marie Haardt Successfully Crosses Syria, Iraq, Persia, and Afghanistan to Arrive at the Pamir."
This was such a massive undertaking in 1931 that a prior issue of National Geographic Magazine detailed preparations for the trip (see this blog, Saturday, December 28, 2013: "Getting Ready for a BIG trip!). A caravan of 'cars' left Beyrouth, Syria, (present-day Beirut, Lebanon) on April 4, 1931. It was to proceed east over desert and mountains (hardly any roads, any place!) and meet in Kashgar with another motorcade which started from the Asian Pacific coast.
The lofty goals of this journey were: "To study this interesting old continent; to follow pilgrim and trade routes older than idols or money; to record the sights and sounds of the changing East by methods unavailable to former expeditions, to share our results with millions" (p. 392). The motorcars resembled the American Model-T Ford trucks in the front and military tanks with treads in the rear. They were equipped to travel on all terrains.
As the cars were bulky and slow, the occupants could see desert life, primitive except for that of the sheiks. "Hurdling a rise in the desert, we suddenly saw Khaqin (Persia), with a wide bridge crossing an unexpected river, with women in bright colors doing their laundry in the muddy water, and storks perched on little mud houses set among the slanting palms" (p. 402).
The troupe at last saw some "great green valleys tucked in between barren hills . . . springtime Persia (modern Iraq) is a lovely land" (p. 403). Automobiles were strictly a luxury among the wealthy; the common folk traveled by camel, donkey, and horses, or super-crowded "motorbuses." There were great herds of sheep scattered over the countryside.
Mr. Williams was the only American in the motor caravan. He particularly appreciated the ancient forts and ruins. These cultural opportunities were everywhere, particularly in Teheran, Persia. "Tak-i-bosson artists carved these reliefs thirteen centuries ago" (photo caption, p. 410).
The further East the seven-car calvacade proceeded, the more their group was a novelty to the natives. "We are as good as a circus. Our creeping cars demand attention. Our dress is noticeable from afar. When I use a large, shiny camera, perched on a tripod as high as my chin, and dodge in and out of a sheetlike focusing cloth, it is little wonder that folk who never saw such an instrument come running" (p. 419).
In Afghanistan there were poppy fields everywhere. I found it interesting, yet sad, reading about Helmand province, where my nephew, Justin was killed in 2008 by an IED. Justin was an American/Irishman, formerly U.S. Navy, in the Irish regiment of the Royal British Army at the time of his death. The Afghan language is called "Pushto;" Justin learned it, hoping to help the Afghan children.
Even in the desert were scattered garages, "service stations" for the new motorcars. Thus far, the great majority of peoples were Mohammedans. Mosques of varying sizes were found in every city and town.
In 1931, a modern section of Kabul, Afghanistan, was being built along side of the ancient city. Mr. Williams writes, "On a wind-swept hill commanding magnificent views of this fertile plain, we were entertained in a country home which now belongs to the municipality" (p. 428). It seemed that everywhere the motor-caravan went, they were royally treated. He observed, "The women of Afghanistan are kept in more rigid seclusion and are more closely veiled than those of any other Moslem land" (photo caption, p. 429).
The explorers took many side trips to see local sites of interest. Close to Kabul was Bamian, "first century center of artistic and commercial influences reaching far into Iran, India, and Central Asia" (p. 428). "The two colossal Buddhas, 175 and 116 feet high, are crude and lifeless. . . Climbing about in the interior of the cliffs, nudging around rock shoulders high above the ground, mounting the stairways that lead to the heads of the colossi . . all this is a thrilling and unusual experience" (p. 431).
Mr. Williams also appreciated the beauty of the land: "Not since leaving Beyrouth (Beirut), our starting point, had we seen anything so fine" (p. 432).
As always, river crossings were generally challenging to accomplish with their heavy vehicles and equipment. Williams writes, "Deep and swift were the Afghanistan streams, which presented the most difficult problems of the 3,500-mile trek from Beyrouth to Srinagar; but generous and whole-hearted native cooperation enabled the Expedition to overcome such hazards without casualty to motor cars or personnel" (photo caption, p. 433).
There was a complex political situation in the Middle East in 1931. It appeared that the places the caravan visited so far were all ruled officially by the French although the local sheiks and shahs ruled in lesser matters. Yet there was peace.
"The Afghan King was genuinely grateful for the kind treatment he received in France . . . His majesty spoke enthusiastically about America: "I hope many Americans will visit Afghanistan, where they will be made most welcome" (p. 437-438). "The hour we spent with the king . . . was the climax of a month's uninterrupted hospitality" (p. 438).
Next the tour passed through the North Gate into India, under British control. "The British tried to outdo one another in honoring and entertaining us" (p. 438). So, life "on the road" was not all unbearable heat, hardships and deprivation! "And so we passed Taxila and Rawalpindi and came to Srinagar, 3,445 miles, 53 stages, and 81 days from Beyrouth" (p. 439).
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