Sunday, June 15: After a pleasant breakfast in our hotel in Live Oak, Florida, Theresa and I drive farther south on I-75. I'm looking for groves of orange trees but don't see any at all. Perhaps they're there but not ripe? Theresa finds a church fairly close to the interstate in Gainesville. We stop for Mass at a huge, new church. I'll include more details when I find a way to download my photos.
We are too excited to be tired when we reach our destination: Casa Ybel resort on Sanibel Island, Florida! It is large, grand, and right on the ocean! The 'house man' unloads our belongings and we can relax for a whole week!
Monday, June 16: It is as close to Paradise as one can get here on Sanibel Island! From the lanai of our suite at Casa Ybel, we are quite close to the shell-filled beach and the warm waves of the Gulf water. Last night I got up once and peeked outside. It was perfectly quiet. The near-full moon silhouetted the still palm trees against the dark sky and water.
Daughter #4, Theresa and I, walked on the beach for an hour after waking up this morning. We were entertained by the armada of large black-gray pelicans, always active. They don't dive into the ocean, they PLOP! One emerged with a huge fish in its big beak then proceeded to drop it right back into the waves!
We hunted for more pretty shells and found quite a few bi-valves, twin shells connected to each other by a thin strip of muscle. If we found a shell that was occupied by an animal, we tossed it back into the ocean. Later, Theresa found out that the Law said we HAD to toss them back.
We took our stash home to the hotel and Theresa fixed us a hearty breakfast of bacon, scrambled eggs, and toast. Then Theresa donned her bikini and sunscreen while I took a book out on the lanai, claiming the lounge chair.
After several hours, I decided to find the map and try to locate the library. I was ready to borrow their computer and attempt to download my photos to this blog. No problem. I found the library - but forgot the proper connecting cable! Maybe tomorrow!
On the way home, I took photos of this Casa Ybel resort complex. There are all sorts of picturesque lakes, landscaping, and structures. Meanwhile, Theresa and I got together, sat together on the lanai watching The Civil War between the Pelicans and the Crows unfold.
It seems that the Crows had taken possession of a large palm tree directly between us and the beach. Two much larger Pelicans landed in a non-palm tree next to the Crows. You have never heard such a loud bird racket! The Crows were positively livid! The two Pelicans just sat in their tree and nonchalantly ignored the Crows, who were hollering even louder. Two minutes later, Seven Pelicans grandly flew in. The much smaller Crows evaporated, or so it seemed. The Civil War was over, as quickly as it had begun. And, not a shot had been fired. Theresa commented, "If I had been one of the Crows, I'd have left, too!"
With the drama apparently over for the moment, we decided to eat at The Thistle Lodge restaurant here at Casa Ybel. It was grand! And while we were dining, we watched a wedding on the beach.
Next, we wanted to find the local Sanibel Island Lighthouse. At the very point of the island there, the waves were high and quite close the the road. We had read that a beach at the other end of the island was the best place to view sunsets since it had an unobstructed view west.
On the way, we stopped at another highly recommended place, Pinnochio's Ice Cream Shoppe. I selected a scoop of pistachio and a scoop of wedding cake (flavored ice cream). Phenomenal! Theresa chose birthday cake (flavor) and something chocolatey.
We sat on their front porch enjoying the ice cream. By the time we reached the other side of the island, it was too dark to see anything but the road in front of us! So we went home, after several wrong turns and having to consult the phone's GPS. They don't believe in street lights here.
Our day was busy, full, fun, and relaxing. Good-night!
FYI: Theresa researched the weight of adult pelicans: over 21 pounds! Those are BIG birds!
Praise You, Lord, for our fun day today!
Monday, June 16, 2014
Saturday, June 14, 2014
Due South!: To Sanibel Island, Day 1, Saturday, 6/14/14
We, daughter #4, Theresa, and I, drove eleven hours on I-75 south from Lexington, Kentucky, today, and we reached the beautiful, fun State of Florida! The familiar mountains of Kentucky are such a full, green contrast from the last time I passed this way in March when tall tubes of ice clung to the bare rocks.
The mountains are taller with an even wider vista of expansive valleys in Tennessee. Of course, we flew by the Fireworks store with the big rocket. A few miles farther down the highway, on the other side of the road, was the big green Dinosaur. Theresa commented, "Mom, that's not a dinosaur. It's a Dragon!" Oops!
We snapped a few photos, mainly in the state Welcome Centers, but I can't put them into this tablet, so I will include them at a later date. The one thing, next to our lively conversation, that I enjoyed the most, so far, on this trip, was the wild mimosa trees. They start appearing in Tennessee and have continued through Georgia into Florida. If you're not familiar with these trees, they have flowers of pink puffs. The trees are lovely and seem to be everywhere.
Another thing we are SO enjoying is, for once, staying in the same time zone! What a nice, small luxury!
In South Georgia were clumps of the graceful moss hanging from the trees, and then, little palm trees. I'm seriously considering buying a small palm tree this trip! I know it couldn't survive the Kentucky winters but - I'll bring it inside then.
For now we're happily settled in our hotel, tired, and ready for sleep! Tomorrow, you'll find out our fabulous destination. A clue: it's NOT Disney! I'll try to schedule a time to appear on the web-cam, and let you know what time we'll wave to you. Good-night!
The mountains are taller with an even wider vista of expansive valleys in Tennessee. Of course, we flew by the Fireworks store with the big rocket. A few miles farther down the highway, on the other side of the road, was the big green Dinosaur. Theresa commented, "Mom, that's not a dinosaur. It's a Dragon!" Oops!
We snapped a few photos, mainly in the state Welcome Centers, but I can't put them into this tablet, so I will include them at a later date. The one thing, next to our lively conversation, that I enjoyed the most, so far, on this trip, was the wild mimosa trees. They start appearing in Tennessee and have continued through Georgia into Florida. If you're not familiar with these trees, they have flowers of pink puffs. The trees are lovely and seem to be everywhere.
Another thing we are SO enjoying is, for once, staying in the same time zone! What a nice, small luxury!
In South Georgia were clumps of the graceful moss hanging from the trees, and then, little palm trees. I'm seriously considering buying a small palm tree this trip! I know it couldn't survive the Kentucky winters but - I'll bring it inside then.
For now we're happily settled in our hotel, tired, and ready for sleep! Tomorrow, you'll find out our fabulous destination. A clue: it's NOT Disney! I'll try to schedule a time to appear on the web-cam, and let you know what time we'll wave to you. Good-night!
Friday, June 13, 2014
A Rich Find in Mexico
A mountainous state in southern Mexico, Oaxaca is frequently shaken by earthquakes. The city of Oaxaca, founded by the Spaniards 400 years ago, is in a valley, "the richest and most populous section of the State," Monte Alban, Richest Archeological Find in America: A Tomb in Oaxaca, Mexico, Yields Treasures Which Reveal the Splendid Culture of the Mixtecs, Dr. Alfonso Caso, National Geographic Magazine, October, 1932, p. 487.
Prior to reading this article, I was not aware of ancient highly civilized cultures in that area other than the Aztecs and Mayas. Dr. Caso felt like the Mixtecs and Zapotecs were superior in some respects. He started a significant archeological "dig" at nearby Monte Alban in pursuit of proof of his theory.
Monte Alban at that time (1932) was a "vast unexplored area" with "hundreds of mounds, many of them doubtless rich in relics of forgotten civilizations and promising stupendous possibilities for future discovery. Fortunately, the author found the field untouched save for a few tombs that had been opened and emptied of their contents," (photo caption, p. 489).
Dr. Caso and his team chose their first mound to excavate and "guiding ourselves by the lines of rubbish apparent, we discovered the last steps of the grand stairway leading up to the building. Upon completion . . . it was found that the stairway was nearly 130 feet wide by 42 feet high and consisted of 33 steps," (p. 491).
The author next excavated more than a half-dozen tombs which were found devoid of objects, meaning that they had previously been dug into and pirated. Dr. Caso found another tomb to be intact. "On the threshold, or vestibule, separating the two chambers of the tomb, and in the center of a great pile of bones, glittered objects of gold - beads, little bells, etc. Strung on the arm bones of one of the skeletons were ten bracelets, six of gold and four of silver. . . Upon lighting the floor of the tomb, we found it aglow with pearls, golden beads, and innumerable small, flat pieces of turquoise that at one time had composed a rich mosaic. . . As we left the tomb I realized the incalculable richness of my discovery from a material, an artistic, and a scientific viewpoint. I had no knowledge of any previous discovery in America of such a treasure . . . Despite the fact that it was then 6 o'clock in the afternoon, I resolved to work all night and uncover the entrance to the tomb as quickly as possible," (p. 489). Imagine the excitement!
More than 500 artifacts were cataloged from this one tomb, objects made from metal, minerals, pearl, and even crocodile and wolf teeth. Also found were intricate "Mixtec carvings on jaguar and deer bones. . . The use of all save the comb and sacrificial knives remains a mystery," (photo caption, p. 506). "The bones are cut in high relief and the work is so exquisite that it would not be surpassed by the finest products of China and India in ivory," (p. 512).
Although multiple beautiful and unique articles were found, basic questions were unanswered. Dr. Caso revealed, "My object in undertaking this research is to gather data that will make it possible to read the Zapotecan writings and to establish the relation between the Zapotecs and the Mixtecs with the Mayas and the Mexicans," (p. 512). I will look forward to future articles on this topic in National Geographic Magazine.
(Personal comment: no wonder I love museums! I love Heritage. Who knows? Maybe I'm a museum myself! I start another personal travel adventure early tomorrow morning. I hope I get adequate internet coverage there to report to you. You'll read about it, sooner or later!)
Prior to reading this article, I was not aware of ancient highly civilized cultures in that area other than the Aztecs and Mayas. Dr. Caso felt like the Mixtecs and Zapotecs were superior in some respects. He started a significant archeological "dig" at nearby Monte Alban in pursuit of proof of his theory.
Monte Alban at that time (1932) was a "vast unexplored area" with "hundreds of mounds, many of them doubtless rich in relics of forgotten civilizations and promising stupendous possibilities for future discovery. Fortunately, the author found the field untouched save for a few tombs that had been opened and emptied of their contents," (photo caption, p. 489).
Dr. Caso and his team chose their first mound to excavate and "guiding ourselves by the lines of rubbish apparent, we discovered the last steps of the grand stairway leading up to the building. Upon completion . . . it was found that the stairway was nearly 130 feet wide by 42 feet high and consisted of 33 steps," (p. 491).
The author next excavated more than a half-dozen tombs which were found devoid of objects, meaning that they had previously been dug into and pirated. Dr. Caso found another tomb to be intact. "On the threshold, or vestibule, separating the two chambers of the tomb, and in the center of a great pile of bones, glittered objects of gold - beads, little bells, etc. Strung on the arm bones of one of the skeletons were ten bracelets, six of gold and four of silver. . . Upon lighting the floor of the tomb, we found it aglow with pearls, golden beads, and innumerable small, flat pieces of turquoise that at one time had composed a rich mosaic. . . As we left the tomb I realized the incalculable richness of my discovery from a material, an artistic, and a scientific viewpoint. I had no knowledge of any previous discovery in America of such a treasure . . . Despite the fact that it was then 6 o'clock in the afternoon, I resolved to work all night and uncover the entrance to the tomb as quickly as possible," (p. 489). Imagine the excitement!
More than 500 artifacts were cataloged from this one tomb, objects made from metal, minerals, pearl, and even crocodile and wolf teeth. Also found were intricate "Mixtec carvings on jaguar and deer bones. . . The use of all save the comb and sacrificial knives remains a mystery," (photo caption, p. 506). "The bones are cut in high relief and the work is so exquisite that it would not be surpassed by the finest products of China and India in ivory," (p. 512).
Although multiple beautiful and unique articles were found, basic questions were unanswered. Dr. Caso revealed, "My object in undertaking this research is to gather data that will make it possible to read the Zapotecan writings and to establish the relation between the Zapotecs and the Mixtecs with the Mayas and the Mexicans," (p. 512). I will look forward to future articles on this topic in National Geographic Magazine.
(Personal comment: no wonder I love museums! I love Heritage. Who knows? Maybe I'm a museum myself! I start another personal travel adventure early tomorrow morning. I hope I get adequate internet coverage there to report to you. You'll read about it, sooner or later!)
Thursday, June 12, 2014
Cold, White Nothingness?
In November of 1929, there was a small military village, Little America, near the South Pole in Antarctica. Capt. Ashley C. McKinley was third in command at this expedition, and was the aerial photographer. Mapping the Antarctic From The Air: The Aerial Camera Earns Its Place as The Eyes and Memory of The Explorer, National Geographic Magazine, October, 1932, is his account of the flight to the South Pole.
After miles of nothing but flat snow as seen from their plane, the team spotted their dog sled teams. They dropped supplies for them. Soon thereafter, they were flying over Liv Glacier but were in danger of crashing into the mountains (Rockefeller Mountains) ahead. Frantic efforts ensued to fill the gasoline tank with the gasoline supplies in order to be able to throw out through the trapdoor the cans and 250 pounds of emergency food rations to lighten the plane. It worked and they cleared the 10,000 feet tall peaks.
As the crew passed over the South Pole, the American Flag was dropped out the trapdoor. As the plane turned north, pictures were taken to the west. Eight hundred miles more of terrain were to be photographed, but this was done almost without incident.
Returning to Little America, McKinley's films were developed. The results were amazing. We who take air trips routinely could not imagine the excitement. The distance "which the geological party had been plodding with dog teams for weeks," (photo caption, p. 477) was covered by plane in less than two hours.
A particularly difficult challenge was "melting the snow to obtain the 200 gallons of water which were needed for the development of each roll of aerial film. . . A bucketful of Antarctic snow, taken out of an atmosphere thirty degrees below zero, must "set" on a red-hot stove half an hour before it melts, and then there is only one-third of a bucketful of water," (p. 479). What slow, meticulous work!
We with our digital photos printed from our computers at home cannot appreciate the film development process in the 1930s: "The hypersensitized film must be developed in absolute darkness. . . Upon completion of the developing of the first season's work, I had time during the winter night to study the results. I then realized how much the airplane does to increase one's conception of the vastness of this ice-covered land. Hundreds of square miles of territory, with long, rolling expanses of white, could be seen at a glance," (p. 479).
The goal of this trip was not only to photograph the Antarctic area, it was to use the resulting photos to construct accurate maps of the mountains, plains, glaciers, and crevices. McKinley concluded, "I believe the work in the Antarctic and the long, tedious map construction at home have been fully justified by the results obtained. The aerial camera has earned its place as the eyes and memory of the aerial explorer," (p. 485).
After miles of nothing but flat snow as seen from their plane, the team spotted their dog sled teams. They dropped supplies for them. Soon thereafter, they were flying over Liv Glacier but were in danger of crashing into the mountains (Rockefeller Mountains) ahead. Frantic efforts ensued to fill the gasoline tank with the gasoline supplies in order to be able to throw out through the trapdoor the cans and 250 pounds of emergency food rations to lighten the plane. It worked and they cleared the 10,000 feet tall peaks.
As the crew passed over the South Pole, the American Flag was dropped out the trapdoor. As the plane turned north, pictures were taken to the west. Eight hundred miles more of terrain were to be photographed, but this was done almost without incident.
Returning to Little America, McKinley's films were developed. The results were amazing. We who take air trips routinely could not imagine the excitement. The distance "which the geological party had been plodding with dog teams for weeks," (photo caption, p. 477) was covered by plane in less than two hours.
A particularly difficult challenge was "melting the snow to obtain the 200 gallons of water which were needed for the development of each roll of aerial film. . . A bucketful of Antarctic snow, taken out of an atmosphere thirty degrees below zero, must "set" on a red-hot stove half an hour before it melts, and then there is only one-third of a bucketful of water," (p. 479). What slow, meticulous work!
We with our digital photos printed from our computers at home cannot appreciate the film development process in the 1930s: "The hypersensitized film must be developed in absolute darkness. . . Upon completion of the developing of the first season's work, I had time during the winter night to study the results. I then realized how much the airplane does to increase one's conception of the vastness of this ice-covered land. Hundreds of square miles of territory, with long, rolling expanses of white, could be seen at a glance," (p. 479).
The goal of this trip was not only to photograph the Antarctic area, it was to use the resulting photos to construct accurate maps of the mountains, plains, glaciers, and crevices. McKinley concluded, "I believe the work in the Antarctic and the long, tedious map construction at home have been fully justified by the results obtained. The aerial camera has earned its place as the eyes and memory of the aerial explorer," (p. 485).
Friday, June 6, 2014
Birds on Sticks
The various series of animal life displayed in the National Geographic Magazine are always unique, interesting, and beautiful. The Large Wading Birds: Long Legs and Remarkable Beaks, as Well as Size, Form and Color Distinguish the Herons, Ibises, and Flamingos, T. Gilbert Pearson, October 1932, are explored in this article. "As these birds collect virtually all their food from shallow water, their long legs, bare of feathers to a point near the body, making wading easy," (p. 441). These type of birds appear nearly everywhere but are especially found in tropical and temperate zones. This article deals with the species in North America, including Mexico and Canada.
Ibises and Spoonbills
The large or medium-sized birds resemble storks. The difference is to be found in the tips of the beaks. While storks have a straight tip, ibises have the long bill curved. As the name describes, spoonbills' beak tips are "greatly broadened and flattened at the tip," (p. 444). There are white, purple-green and scarlet ibises. It takes the scarlet ibis two to three seasons of molting to appear totally, brilliant scarlet.
In the author's quest to find Wood Ibises, he journeyed to the mossy-covered trees in a Florida swamp. He was very determined, apparently, and knew that poisonous snakes also inhabited the area. For his protection, he carried a club. "In wading across one strip of the swamp, 200 yards wide, I felt obliged to kill 14 of them, one with a length of more than five feet," (p. 445). He found the crows were carrying off many of the wood ibis eggs.
Flamingos
These birds also resemble the storks. "The form of the bill, which is abruptly bent downward at the middle, is found in no other bird," (p. 444). Although copies and models of the beautiful Flamingos are found everywhere, especially on suburban lawns in the United States, the actual birds are found in small colonies in Florida and in other tropical areas in Central America.
Blue Herons
At four feet tall, this bird is the tallest of these water birds. Blue Herons not only feed on fish, they eat water snakes. "Some have a six foot wing spread and weigh from 6 to 8 pounds," (p. 458). I have witnessed dozens of Blue Herons in the Lake at Jacobsen Park in Lexington, Kentucky. My photos have not turned out well. It is exciting to see them glide in for a landing in the lake.
Egrets
The reddish and snowy white egrets are smaller than the other long-legged birds but equally important as there are great numbers of them in the southern United States.
A beautiful white Egret in the marsh, Hilton Head Island, South Carolina, February, 2014.
A Sandpiper, a smaller long-legged bird, on the beach at Hilton Head Island, South Carolina, February, 2014.
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| Sandhill Cranes, another long-legged bird, in Port St. Lucie, Florida, February, 2014. |
The nest of these large birds may be built tall in trees, in bushes, or directly on the top of muddy flats. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, they were hunted for their feathers or for food in great numbers. They would have quickly gone extinct if it were not for the efforts of naturalists such as John James Audubon, who persuaded legislatures to enact protective laws. There were lovely color paintings in this 1932 National Geographic Magazine article which certainly added to my enjoyment.
Wednesday, June 4, 2014
S-T-Y-R-I-A, Yes, It's Spelled Correctly
"Styria is both the Shenandoah Valley and the Birmingham of Austria. In an alpine country whose borders touch no salt water, Austria's city dwellers take to the grassy slopes of her tall mountains, or to rural villages tucked away in smiling valleys, when their annual playtime rolls around," Styria, a Favored Vacation Land of Central Europe, Melville Bell Grosvenor, National Geographic Magazine, October, 1932, p. 430. Thus begins a delightful, small article featuring a beautiful section of color photos. For me, it is a treat to leave the burning desert of Arabia and travel to a land of mountains covered with green trees.
The vacationers coming to Styria loved to hunt chamois. Pardon my ignorance, I had to google chamois to find out what kind of creature this is: a goat-antelope. Not every culture hunts foxes! "The tufts in their hats (the men) are a sign of hunting prowess. The "beard" of the chamois is much sought by huntsmen. It grows on the back of the neck in the form of stiff, dark hairs," (photo caption, p. 436.
Their mountains are full of high-grade iron ore which has been mined in the area for 12 centuries. The trees support a large timber industry. "While dairying has been the principal industry of rural Styria for many generations, farming is being encouraged, because to-day Austria has to import large quantities of food," (p. 438).
The city of Graz is the capitol of the region of Styria. It is a manufacturing center for bicycles, wagons, machinery, champagne and beer, iron and steel products.
The native Austrian costumes worn on special occasions are lovely! Their umbrellas, which they call, "rainsticks," are big enough to cover a whole family. This was a quite pleasant trip in my recliner today.
The vacationers coming to Styria loved to hunt chamois. Pardon my ignorance, I had to google chamois to find out what kind of creature this is: a goat-antelope. Not every culture hunts foxes! "The tufts in their hats (the men) are a sign of hunting prowess. The "beard" of the chamois is much sought by huntsmen. It grows on the back of the neck in the form of stiff, dark hairs," (photo caption, p. 436.
Their mountains are full of high-grade iron ore which has been mined in the area for 12 centuries. The trees support a large timber industry. "While dairying has been the principal industry of rural Styria for many generations, farming is being encouraged, because to-day Austria has to import large quantities of food," (p. 438).
The city of Graz is the capitol of the region of Styria. It is a manufacturing center for bicycles, wagons, machinery, champagne and beer, iron and steel products.
The native Austrian costumes worn on special occasions are lovely! Their umbrellas, which they call, "rainsticks," are big enough to cover a whole family. This was a quite pleasant trip in my recliner today.
Tuesday, June 3, 2014
Heard of Hadhramaut?
I've never heard of Hadhramaut either! It is both a region and a village located in present-day Yemen, the country south of Saudi Arabia. In 1932, most of the land was simply "Arabia." D. van de Meulen, a former official for the Netherlands at the Arabian city of Jidda, had heard there was an ancient remote desert land called Hadhramaut. Into Burning Hadhramaut: The Arab Land of Frankincense and Myrrh, Ever a Lodestone of Western Exploration, National Geographic Magazine, October, 1932, is the account of his travels there.
In ancient times there was an important trade route through Hadhramaut. It started in India and Persia, progressed through the desert area of Hadhramaut, and continued to Egypt and Syria, and on to the lands surrounding the Mediterranean Sea. "Incense trees grew along the barren, rocky plateaus and in the scorching heat of the wadies (dry river beds)," (p. 387). The gathering of incense, myrrh, and aloe was best left to those who knew the area. "And woe to him who, uninitiated, tried to collect the valuable product, for, sooner or later, he perished from thirst and exhaustion," (p. 387).
In the 1890s, there were two foreign groups who attempted to discover the secrets of Hadhramaut but were either killed or scared away by the native Bedoins. By 1932, the sheiks were favorable to this Netherland gentleman and protected him on his journey. Understand, he mostly traveled by camel. At one point, a sheik owned a car. For part of the journey, the car had to be dismantled and carried by camels. At another point, the country was so rocky and steep with cliffs that the men had to walk and hope the camels could descend into the valley.
With temperatures reaching 118 to 120 degrees, it is a wonder any human can live there! In the villages, "the days are a torment, that must be endured somehow, preferably, by sleeping," (p. 419). The author noted that in many of the villages, he had to be careful to avoid having sewage or garbage dumped on him from above, as was their practice. The buildings in the villages were all constructed of mud. The author marveled that they could reach ten to eleven stories, even though they were made of sun-dried bricks.
Much of the land, judging from the black-and-white photos in the article, resembled the American Grand Canyon. There were very few roads which quickly disappeared when the sandstorms came through an area.
From time to time, the author and his party were royally entertained by one of the sheiks. "While Hadhramaut itself now has no sources of wealth, many of its sultans, sayids, and prominent Arab families have grown rich on trade with India," (photo caption, p. 423). The natives were extremely primitive in every aspect of their lives.
Mr. van de Meulen particularly wanted to visit Bir Barahut, or "The Mouth of Hell." Westerners had heard so many varying tales of it, they thought it must be an active volcano. Hardly anyone would take the foolhardy Europeans there but there were a few brave souls. The Mouth of Hell turned out to be a large cave system. The party explored its many passages for hours. When they returned to the cave opening, the natives were shocked. They thought the others had died inside. "At the entrance, we found our waiting escort in deep slumber. They stared at us in dumb amazement when we had awakened them. We looked more like chimney sweeps than spirits from the underworld!" (p. 423).
When ready to return home, the author reflected, "The following morning, we mounted our silently trotting camels. The whole population of Dijar al-Buqrie stood together, under the protection of their mud walls, to see us off. We rode toward freedom, if God would spare us on the long and unknown road that lay before us; they remain, prisoners in their own desert citadel, in the scorching gateway of Hadhramaut, loyal to their poverty-stricken land," (p. 429).
In ancient times there was an important trade route through Hadhramaut. It started in India and Persia, progressed through the desert area of Hadhramaut, and continued to Egypt and Syria, and on to the lands surrounding the Mediterranean Sea. "Incense trees grew along the barren, rocky plateaus and in the scorching heat of the wadies (dry river beds)," (p. 387). The gathering of incense, myrrh, and aloe was best left to those who knew the area. "And woe to him who, uninitiated, tried to collect the valuable product, for, sooner or later, he perished from thirst and exhaustion," (p. 387).
In the 1890s, there were two foreign groups who attempted to discover the secrets of Hadhramaut but were either killed or scared away by the native Bedoins. By 1932, the sheiks were favorable to this Netherland gentleman and protected him on his journey. Understand, he mostly traveled by camel. At one point, a sheik owned a car. For part of the journey, the car had to be dismantled and carried by camels. At another point, the country was so rocky and steep with cliffs that the men had to walk and hope the camels could descend into the valley.
With temperatures reaching 118 to 120 degrees, it is a wonder any human can live there! In the villages, "the days are a torment, that must be endured somehow, preferably, by sleeping," (p. 419). The author noted that in many of the villages, he had to be careful to avoid having sewage or garbage dumped on him from above, as was their practice. The buildings in the villages were all constructed of mud. The author marveled that they could reach ten to eleven stories, even though they were made of sun-dried bricks.
Much of the land, judging from the black-and-white photos in the article, resembled the American Grand Canyon. There were very few roads which quickly disappeared when the sandstorms came through an area.
From time to time, the author and his party were royally entertained by one of the sheiks. "While Hadhramaut itself now has no sources of wealth, many of its sultans, sayids, and prominent Arab families have grown rich on trade with India," (photo caption, p. 423). The natives were extremely primitive in every aspect of their lives.
Mr. van de Meulen particularly wanted to visit Bir Barahut, or "The Mouth of Hell." Westerners had heard so many varying tales of it, they thought it must be an active volcano. Hardly anyone would take the foolhardy Europeans there but there were a few brave souls. The Mouth of Hell turned out to be a large cave system. The party explored its many passages for hours. When they returned to the cave opening, the natives were shocked. They thought the others had died inside. "At the entrance, we found our waiting escort in deep slumber. They stared at us in dumb amazement when we had awakened them. We looked more like chimney sweeps than spirits from the underworld!" (p. 423).
When ready to return home, the author reflected, "The following morning, we mounted our silently trotting camels. The whole population of Dijar al-Buqrie stood together, under the protection of their mud walls, to see us off. We rode toward freedom, if God would spare us on the long and unknown road that lay before us; they remain, prisoners in their own desert citadel, in the scorching gateway of Hadhramaut, loyal to their poverty-stricken land," (p. 429).
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