Winter Escape! Day 15: Georgia On My Mind!

Our leisurely drive through the South Carolina countryside today included something new: swamps.  They are distinctly different from marshes.  "Swamps are wooded areas of standing water or saturated soil that may or may not dry up in summer.  Unlike marshes, swamps are dominated by trees and shrubs whose root systems are adapted to growing in standing water."  The swamps we saw today had blackish-looking water.  Those around the Magnolia Plantation near Charleston, South Carolina, USA, that we saw Monday, were bright lime green.  "Marshes are low-lying places covered by standing water most of the time.  Marsh plants have adapted to saturated soil, and many animal species depend on these environments for food and hiding places."  (Definitions from Field Guide to the Water's Edge, National Geographic, 2012)  We're told that usually marshes are involved with tides.

The Talmadge Bridge, high over the Savannah River, a suspension bridge.

Huge cargo ship in the river, looking east.  The river originally was 10 feet deep and is now 40 feet deep at the Port of Savannah.

Peggy and I went to the Savannah Visitors Centers and got tickets for a Trolley Tour.  We thought this was a pretty good deal because it included free parking all day.  We could get off and back on at 15 different stops in the Old City plus, the guides gave us a good history of the city.

We got off the trolley at the next stop because we were hungry!  The restaurant, "Lady and Sons," owned by renowned TV star and cook, Paula Deen, didn't look like much from the outside.  We went in and took an elevator to the third floor.  This was a former warehouse and hardware store.  The food was SO very OUTSTANDING we agreed that it probably was the BEST food we had ever eaten!  I devoured Fried Green Tomatoes, a Chicken Barbecue Sandwich, Thick Fried Potatoes and Coleslaw with Peach Cobbler for dessert.  Then we shopped at their store, adjacent to the restaurant.

Portrait of Paula Deen and Sons, in the restaurant.

Me and my friend, the Paula Deen cutout.

Peggy contemplating the menu.  She shared the Fried Green Tomato Appetizer, relished Fried Oysters, Kale Chips, Thick Fried Potatoes and Coleslaw with Peach Cobbler for dessert.

Back on the trolley, we thoroughly enjoyed the long tour of the city's prominent homes, businesses, river area, municipal buildings but especially the town Squares, 22 of them.  This particular building contains 5 townhomes.

The Squares were all beautiful mini-parks, each one different, most dedicated to a prominent person in Savannah's history.  I believe this one was the site of "Forrest Gump" sitting on the park bench in the movie of the same name's beginning.  There were tulip trees, rose bushes, and other flowers blooming.  Spring has blossomed out in Savannah!

So many beautiful homes!

At Trolley Stop #8 was the church recommended to us as the largest and most impressive in Savannah, Georgia: the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist.  We found it interesting that this Cathedral, in another state, was dedicated to the same saint as that of the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist in Charleston, South Carolina.

St. John the Baptist Cathedral has two towers, one hidden behind the tree in this photo.  The original small frame church was begun by the mostly French immigrants in 1780.  This present large building was completed in 1896, burned down in 1898, rebuilt in 1899 with the first Mass on Christmas Eve.

The Main Altar.  I judge the stained glass windows in this church to be among the most sacred and artistic of any I have ever seen.  They tell the story of much of Jesus' life and death.

Jesus ascends to his Father in heaven, surrounded by his disciples and his Blessed Mother, Mary, the lower figure in blue.

The Eighth Station of the Cross: Jesus consoles the women of Jerusalem.  FYI: there are 14 Stations of the Cross which depict the condemnation, journey of Jesus carrying his cross, his crucifixion and death on the cross, his removal from the cross and the placing of his body in the sepulchre.  They are found in all Catholic churches throughout the world and help us remember what Jesus, the Son of God, did for us, to save us from our sins.  These stations in this church are the most realistic, beautiful, and holy stations I have ever seen anywhere!  They were carved in Bavaria with the background made in America.  What an inspiration! They are larger than any I've seen.

Jesus, dead on the cross, for us.  In the front of St. John the Baptist Cathedral.

I was so touched by the exquisite beauty of everything in this church, I wish I had time to post about 50 more photos of it.  But you really have to see it for yourself.  I told Peggy that it rivaled anything I had seen in Europe, Israel, or America!  Also unequaled was that during our visit there, we were treated to a 'concert' on their mighty, wonderful organ - the organist practicing, I'm sure, with great skill.

This home, we were told by our guide, was constructed by an ironworker; everything not brick or glass, even the steps, is made of iron.

The Pirates' House!  Trolley Stop #10.

The riverfront district was historic with great shopping and parks.  There is a statue of a lady waving a scarf. Apparently, as a young woman, her love left her as a sailor on a boat.  With every ship that came in, she was there looking for her love.  She watched for 44 years, he never returned, and she died of a broken heart.  There are so many tales in Savannah, so much intrigue, many countries fought for the city!

The west side of the Savannah River.

Back over the Talmadge Bridge again, after a fine day in a fine city!  It is quite a long bridge: after one mile there is a sign welcoming us back to South Carolina.  If you would like to be properly welcomed, I recommend you visit the South, United States of America!

Winter Escape! Day 14: Winter!

Oh, dear: we had to wear our winter coats today on the Island!  It was cold and rainy, in the 30s!.  No Beach today!  Peggy and I did some more shopping. We came home, spent the afternoon knitting again and did a bit of laundry.  After finishing up our Apple-Cheddar Soup for dinner, we finished up the BBC series "Land Girls."  We love happy endings!

Then we planned our next adventure in a big city for tomorrow!  The weather should be warmer, but we'll be checking that forecast before we go. . . I think we'll miss the area of ice and snow blanketing much of the south. . .

Winter Escape! Day #13: A Bum Day!

It is a dark and gloomy day on the Island. . . rain forecasted but not raining. . . outside temp in the low 40s. . not even the multitude of the usual birds flying about. . . Gloom!. . . what could Peggy and I do but stay inside! We thought we might take the opportunity to go shopping but didn't get around to it.  We knitted, she her red sweater and me my blue ruana.  We ate popcorn.  We laughed.  We snacked.  I made apple-cheddar soup.

I know: you whose temps are in the single digits have no compassion for us.  It's all relative.  Sorry, but I haven't missed the ice and snow and more ice back home in Kentucky.  I'm hoping by the time I have to go home the worst will be over!

We wondered if any brave (?) souls would venture out on the beach today.  But we didn't wonder long enough to garb up, go out there, and check for ourselves.

So, we all have a slower day today: me, because I've been a couch potato and haven't written much on the blogs or downloaded photos, a seemingly lengthy process, and you, because there isn't much to read.  In compensation for you, I offer one of my very favorite recipes.

APPLE-CHEDDAR SOUP

1 onion, finely chopped                                                  2 medium-sized apples, any variety

1 tablespoon margarine or butter                                    1/2 cup milk, whole or 2%

2 medium baking potatoes, peeled & diced                    2 tablespoons flour

2 cups apple cider or apple juice                                    1 cup (4 ounces) cheddar cheese, grated

1/2 teaspoon salt, dash pepper

Cook the chopped onion in the margarine or butter until tender. Add the apple cider or apple juice, stir in the potatoes, salt & pepper.  Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, 15 minutes.  Add the apples, simmer, covered, 5 minutes or until tender. In a small bowl, mix the flour into the milk. Stir into your soup, cook until bubbly.  Slowly add the cheese, stir until melted.  Makes 4 - 6 servings.  Great in winter! 

Winter Escape! Day #12: Still There!

Spending the day in Charleston yesterday, we passed by many marshes and toured the harbor area in the big city.  But when we arrived home, it was dark so we didn't make it to the Hilton Head Beach.  Today, I'm here to tell you: the beach is still there! It was the best day for beach walking: 60's temperature, scarcely a breeze, with gentle waves, a bright sun overhead.

There were many people biking, many walking with or without their dogs, some sunbathing, a family burying a daughter's legs in the sand, some running, many chatting in groups, and three people walking barefoot.  It was definitely a day to be out on the beach! For the first time this trip, I saw two large cargo ships in the distance.  I tried to snap a photo but they didn't show up.

Usually before this long, when I'm vacationing at a beach, I start getting ideas, weighing the pros and cons of moving there!  With property so expensive, how close to the beach could I actually live?  Would I be so fascinated by nature at the beach I wouldn't get any work done at all?  And, before I retired, could I earn a living here?  It all boils down to family: I'd miss my Kentucky family too much, and to money: I couldn't afford to move all my belongings anywhere.  Plus, what if I get bored with the beach?

Years ago, I was talking with a colleague about moving to a beach.  He advised, "You think you would like it but you wouldn't.  The wind is always there and the sand is everywhere." On the flight home from Italy last November, I was sitting with a woman from the Outer Banks, North Carolina, USA.  I told her how much I loved that area, would love to move there, but knew it was just too expensive to consider.  She countered me, "Oh, no, it's not that expensive.  There's all price houses.  You can do it."   I don't know, I might try it - renting - one of these years!

Soft waves today on Hilton Head Island (2/10/14).

The Island of Hilton Head is shaped like a foot.  Today I walked for an hour and a half south, toward the 'toe,' then turned around and walked the same hour and a half to get home to Peggy's condo.  My goal was a piece of land shaped like Diamond Head, Hawaii, only smaller.  I renamed my goal, "Itty Bitty Diamond Head."  I never quite reached it, but totally enjoyed the long walk.

Itty Bitty Diamond Head (south end of beach, Hilton Head Island).

The birds give a never-ending show on the beach.  The most numerous are the seagulls, quite large.  Sometimes they appear to be drag racing, just above the surface of the water.  Sometimes they just float in the water, sometimes they paddle along with their orange webbed feet, sometimes they just loiter.  I thought there was just one pelican flying about.  I've never seen one on the beach although I've seen many on boat docks.  This one lumbered around slowly, gliding, then would dive beak-first into the water.  Further down the shore, I saw the Godzilla of all pelicans!  It was so large, I first thought it was a buoy that floated too close to shore.  Then it spread its ginormous wings and rose into the air!  At that site, Godzilla made the other pelicans look like youngsters.  I tried and tried to photograph a pelican today.  Some would tease me and appear to fly directly toward me, flying low, then turn at the last minute where the white of their undersides blended into the white of the sky.  No photos of pelicans today!

The sandpipers cooperated with my camera.  At first I saw just one, then, farther along the beach, quadruplets!

The Lone Sandpiper.

Quadruplet Sandpipers, two with heads underwater!

.

This is how far south I strolled.  I wanted to prove it to Peggy!

These beach markers are a great safety feature!

The gentleman flying the wavy blue kite entertained the whole beach for quite some time.

Close-up of blue kite.

Last bird photo of the day: a bright Cardinal in the bushes beside the walkway leading off the beach.

Tonight Peggy and I will settle into watching our BBC series after dinner.  Peggy was impressed with how far I walked and has set Beach Marker 33A as her goal.  I told her she'd have to take a photo of it!

Winter Escape! Day #11: Chicken Day!

Our day started out with a long, pleasant ride through the marsh country from Hilton Head Island north to Charleston, South Carolina. We wanted to see the Magnolia Plantation.  After parking and buying our tour tickets, on our way walking to this huge mansion, we were greeted by a score of different breeds of Chickens roaming free.  They were in no hurry to move off the paths and seemed impertinent that we would dare to enter their world!

A Guinea Hen, I'm told, Magnolia Plantation, 2/9/14.  The only place more breeds of chickens can be seen is a State Fair!

Peggy and I marveled at the spacious grounds. The gardens were beautiful, even in the winter.  Several flowering trees were blooming.  This plantation is famous world-wide for its extensive azalea gardens.  

After viewing the "Orientation" to the plantation movie, we walked up to the main house.  Our tour guide, Marie, proudly told us that the plantation was originally given to Mr. Drayton by the King of England in the 1600s.   The property has been owned by this one family for more than 300 years! During that time, three homes have been destroyed by war or fire.  The present beautiful home is the fourth built on the same site.  On the pinnacle of the tower is an iron 'Rooster' weathervane.

Magnolia Plantation, main house.

When the Europeans came to this land, they experimented with several different crops and found that rice was the crop they could grow best in the marshes.  Marie mentioned, "Within 20 years of the yellow rice crop being grown in the States, it became a staple food of Europe."  They grew wealthy and were philanthropists.  Peggy and I admired the solid construction of the home and the beautiful woodwork, furnishings, quilts, bird paintings, and dishes.  The arrangement of windows and doors was meant to capture breezes to make the very hot and humid summers bearable.  We were told about all the different family members who lived in the great house and how they built and improved the gardens.

These lushly moss-draped trees must be among the tallest and oldest in the state.

The white bridge spanning a lake is mirrored perfectly in the still water.

FYI:  There was a vividly bright green parrot, native to South Carolina, that was hunted to extinction to provide feathers for hats.

There are other tours at this large plantation: the gardens, wildlife, train, slave quarters, and swamp.  We plan to return soon!  Yet we wanted to see some of Charleston on this trip so onward we drove.  First stop: The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, perhaps our most beautiful and largest church seen this year.

St. John the Baptist Cathedral, Charleston, SC, a tall, red stone edifice.

Main Altar at St. John the Baptist Cathedral.

Interior of St. John the Baptist Cathedral.   All of the stained glass windows were spectacular, showing the life of Jesus.

St. John the Baptist, proclaiming, "Behold the Lamb of God!"

While we would have liked to spend hours in the church photographing the lovely, inspirational stained glass windows, Peggy and I yearned to see the city architecture, especially the pastel-colored homes.  We found a donkey-drawn Carriage Tour.  History repeated: after we bought tickets, we were directed by the driver, "Waiting area is to the the right of the Chicken."  Another strutting rooster.  There was a small sign on the steps, "Beware of Attack Chicken!"

We were not in any way disappointed by the tour of the Old City, seeing the houses, parks, dock area, ocean, stores, and government buildings and monuments.  Charleston has a colorful history of wars, industry, agriculture and unique intrigues.

One driver, one tour guide, two donkeys and a large carriage provide 11 passengers a most enjoyable ride through Charleston's Old City.

There is a definite New Orleans character in many of the Charleston homes.

Many of the homes' porches were built on the side, instead of in the front, for privacy.

These front stairways are seen frequently throughout the southern states.  Men ascended on the left, and women on the right.  This was done for modesty, so that the men wouldn't accidentally see a woman's Ankle!

Fort Sumter is visible as a gray rectangle on the water on the right.  It was an important military installation during the Revolutionary and Civil Wars.  During the Civil War, the Union Army shelled the city of Charleston (which had largely been evacuated) every 15 minutes for over 500 days!  But the cannon balls didn't explode because the fuses wouldn't travel that far (4 miles).

These are just a few of the dozens of photos we snapped today.  We LOVE South Carolina!  

We were treated to an especially beautiful sunset over the marshes on the way home south to Hilton Head Island.

Winter Escape! Day #10: Catching Up!

Oh, dear: one of those days you have to do ordinary things like go to the grocery, make some soup in the crockpot, take care of laundry and dishes. . . went to 5 pm Mass at Holy Family Church. . . watched two episodes of "Land Girls" and two episodes of "Island War," the story of the German occupation of Guernsey (between England and France in the Channel during WWII). . . planning on going to a big city tomorrow. . . no photos today - sorry!

Winter Escape! Day #9: Cool Exercise

The bike trails have some long wooden bridges over the marshes.

I'm getting into lots of exercise - more than I've ever done in my life!  It was sunny with island temperature in the low 50's today, perfect for biking and walking the beach.  I ended up biking the trail for 1 1/4 hours this morning and hiking the beach for 1 1/4 hours this afternoon.  It felt great!

The late morning sun highlighted the low, 'baby' palmetto palms.  In one area, it looked like a 'nursery' for the palmettos.

There were two new turtles on this tidal pool this morning. 

Larger view of tidal pool.

Two turtles on top of my favorite log in a marsh. With the bamboo leaves sprouting, I expect that in several days, this marsh will be obscured.

In the afternoon, Peggy wanted to finish the gorgeous red sweater she has been knitting.  So I headed to our favorite beach by myself.  Instead of heading south where there is a row of condo buildings, I started out going north, the land of beautiful, grand, single-family homes.

One of the huge beach homes.  Don't you love all the ocean-side windows and the turret!

Who will wash all the windows in this beach-side palace?

The ocean appeared whitish today, with waves even higher.  A foamy, sudsy residue was left on the sandy beach.

These dark stripes in the sand are not oil or pollution.  "The Field Guide to the Water's Edge" reports that they are darker sand kicked up by the ocean.

On the way south to return to the condo, clouds covered the sun.

After a big pot of spaghetti tonight, Peggy and I plan to settle down to watch more episodes of "Land Girls."