This author, Joseph F. Rock, is familiar as the explorer of a remote area in China, "the land between the Yellow River and the Amnyi Machen." Now he undertakes a similar expedition to "another and even less-known region, the Konkaling district, northwest of the Muli Kingdom, where the existence of an enormous mountain mass. . .was not then suspected by the outside world" ("Konka Risumgongba, Holy Mountain of the Outlaws," National Geographic Magazine, July 1931, p. 3). "High Adventure in Snowy Mountains!" Thursday, October 17, 2013, this blog, is my account of Mr. Rock's first voyage. I'm finding that I learn much more about our world and its most diverse people from these lesser known localities.
It's harder to conceive of a "blank area" on the world map, but Konka Risumgongba was an unknown mountain prior to Mr. Rock's journey, sponsored by the National Geographic Society. "It was my friend the King of Muli who made it possible for me to explore this region of amazing scenery and pious robbers, who turn from pillage to prayer - and then back to pillage!" (p. 4). Once again, it was the lamas, or monks, in the lamaseries who provided assistance without which the party would have undoubtedly been killed and never found.
FYI: What trees do you think grow at the highest altitudes? In this region of China "the timber line extends to 15,500 feet. Spruces, larches, and firs are found up to 15,000 feet, which for the remaining 500 feet rhododendron forests composed of trees 25 to 30 feet in height cover the spurs and ridges" (photo caption, p. 6).
The King of Muli's "realm is surrounded by lawless bandits. To the south and southeast is the Lolo robber tribes and to the west and northwest are the Konkaling and Hsiangching outlaws, who often make inroads into his domain" (p. 7). However, even outlaws can be bribed if the booty is valuable enough! Mr. Rock always brought a stock of silver coins with him for 'incentive.'
FYI: In this mountainous territory, distances were not measured in miles, but days, such as, "3 days north of Muli" (photo caption, p. 11).
The King of Muli wrote the letters to the bandit king, asking for safe passage for the Americans. The King accompanied them for part of the distance, then the expedition set out on their own with 36 mules and horses, 21 local assistants plus the "head lama of Muli monastery. . .this lama was like a magician in fairy tales, without him we would have starved. Of course, we paid for everything" (p. 27).
Mr. Rock observed, with pride, "Our party was the first (non-native) to set foot on the Konkaling plateau, explore the majestic peaks rising from it, follow its rivers and gorges, and climb to its glaciers. . .We found the stifling heat in the gorges. . .next to unbearable, especially as we passed from cool forest regions to a temperature of over 100 degrees Fahrenheit within a couple of hours" (p. 30).
There is a photo of our brave author in native dress with his "outlaw escort" - 5 armed men. Further on, the party had to cross a chasm over the Shou Chu River, which was several thousand feet deep. "The wind howled hot, as from a furnace. That we lost nothing crossing that apology for a bridge was indeed a miracle, when one considers that even seasoned muleteers passed over the structure on hands and knees" (p. 34).
Several interesting points: gold was mined nearby. While the highest peaks of the mountains were only rocks and snow, the lower reaches were covered by forest and the most unusual wildflowers. This article is the first time I've heard mention of and seen photographs of natives with costumes depicting Demons from Hell.
Many of the native guides had helped Mr. Rock on his previous trip to the Amnyi Machine Mountain. He relates, "I owe much of the success of these expeditions to this intrepid mountain race. I could trust them implicitly. Not even in the greatest hour of danger, as when surrounded by 600 fierce Chinese bandits, did they show the white feather" (p. 46).
Mr. Rock found the Konka Risumgongba Mountain, and wished to circumnavigate it, and collect botanical and zoological specimens. "We immediately met with opposition. The Konkaling people objected strongly to our killing birds. To me, this seemed peculiar, for they themselves do not hesitate to kill a pious pilgrim while both they and the pilgrim are devoutly circumambulating the sacred peaks! " (p. 46). They managed to take a few specimens surreptitiously.
Around the peaks of the mountain the party encountered, Drashetsongpen, the bandit chief. After ceremonial bowing, the author and the chief sat together. The bandit chief "placed his hand on his chest and said: "You will have nothing to fear, for I have given orders that you shall remain unmolested." That ended our interview" (p. 50).
The author delighted in collecting many specimens and taking many photographs of the rugged mountains, the native peoples and the monks. There was a total of 24 pages of beautiful color photographs in this article.
Before returning to America he made a second trip into the mountains but the weather was bad and he left. He wanted to enter the mountains for the third time but his loyal Muli friend discouraged him. Sensibly, he cancelled the third journey. The robber chief was unhappy because the last time Mr. Rock left, there was a hailstorm that destroyed the entire barley crop of the outlaws. "The robber chief said he had heard of our presence in Muli, and should we again visit his territory he would not listen to the king this time, but would rob and murder us" (p. 64). Good decision!
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