How amazing: "China still holds within its borders vast mountain systems wholly unknown not only to the Western World, but to the Chinese themselves" (p. 385, "The Glories of the Minya Konka: Magnificent Snow Peaks of the China-Tibetan Border are Photographed at Close Range by a National Geographic Society Expedition," National Geographic Magazine, October, 1930, by Joseph F. Rock. This definitely calls for a closer look!
The author's expedition journeyed to south China to the Minya Konka mountain range, photographed the peaks, mapped them, and explored the slopes. The party took along supplies for seven months, including 46 mules and twenty local men. Mr. Rock began his trip by visiting lamas (monks) in a Kulu monastery and a king on the China-Tibet border, the same procedure as that of a previous one to the Amnyi Machen Range to the north (see this blog, September 7, 2013, "Climbing Mountains!").
One of the lamas accompanied the group and facilitated relations with local tribes. Many dangers were faced and overcome: blizzards, robbers, rivers with no bridges, and a civil war in northwestern Yunnan.
"And then suddenly, like a white promontory of clouds, we beheld the long-hidden Minya Konka rising 25,600 feet in sublime majesty. I could not help exclaiming for joy. I marveled at the scenery which I, the first white man ever to stand here, was privileged to see" (p. 413). The towering, rocky, snow-covered mountain was flanked by glaciers. The glaciers, as photographed by Mr. Rock, looked like frozen rivers between mountain peaks.
The party had other tasks in addition to photographing and mapping the mighty mountain range. They collected specimens of plants. One particular treat for them was passing through a birch tree forest. At one point they bought several yaks which could carry their supplies with ease through the snow. The yaks, apparently, were sturdy yet temperamental. In some rivers the mules and yaks had to swim to cross, but in one they were pulled upside down across a rope bridge. The author reports, "The pack animals kicked and brayed and objected to this method of crossing the river" (photo caption, p. 422).
Mr. Rock was privileged to stay in one lamasery (monastery) in their sacred shrine room, in which was kept the mummified remains of the last living buddha (leader). He wondered, "Was this the year 1929, or had time been set back a thousand years? Did I dream, or was it all reality" (p. 426). Four lamas then came into the room to chant prayers and his meditation before sleep was broken. The lamasery was six hundred years old and was isolated by snow from the outside world for six months of the year.
In one town through which they passed, Tatsienlu, population 20,000, I was surprised that there was a Christian church in this remote land of lamas.
Prior to returning home, the expedition was marooned for two months due to the civil war. Mr. Rock reports, "When threatening letters arrived and 2,000 of the rebels came within forty miles. . . I decided that it was high time to leave. I did not care to be held prisoner while rebels dickered with government troops over my release, and then risk losing my head should terms be rejected!" At last, with the help of friendly locals helping them cross the raging Yangtze River, the group was on their way home. The brave explorer concludes, "Once more our guardian angel was with us and brought us safely back, with the lesson that all things worth while are difficult of attainment" (p. 437).
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