While the last blog article recounted the vast and varied South American countryside, the next article explores two of its larger cities: "Twin Stars of Chile: Valparaiso, the Gateway, and Santiago, the Capital - Key Cities with a Progressive Present and a Romantic Past," authored by William Joseph Showalter.
Valparaiso, nicknamed "Valpo," by the Chileans, is on the Pacific coast, a city so steep and hilly in sections that it had "ascensors," which was a short tram-cable car system to enable the people to easily climb up to the next street. In 1929, Valparaiso was compared to our American Atlantic City, a resort town, beautiful and bustling.
While the beach was picturesque, the waters of Fisherman's Bay, "chilled by the proximity of the Humbolt current, is rather too cold for the women, and most of them prefer to look on" (p. 215).
Women featured prominently in Valparaiso as very efficient conductors of trolley cars. There were many buses there, many trains of donkeys, but few cars.
The author's depiction of the 1929 practice of paying for a trolley ride reminded me of a similar experience my daughter #3, Cathy, and I had in 2003 on city buses in Rome, Italy. No one, either driver or passengers, notices whether or not you pay your fare to an automated machine and receive your receipt. Yet inspectors randomly come aboard and check each passenger. If you cannot produce a receipt, you will receive a fine. We were too busy enjoying the city's wonderful sights to risk a fine!
Particularly enjoyable was the 16-page 'centerfold' of colored photographs. The first one is a very large statue of "Christ of the Andes," placed "a quarter of a century ago. . . more than 12,000 feet above the sea, on the border between Chile and Argentina. It was cast from bronze cannon of the two nations, and stands as an emblem of their adherence to the doctrine of "peace on earth, good will to men" (photo page I). Christ's arms are extended in a posture of blessing the nations.
Next Mr. Showalter teold us of his train trip from Valparaiso to Santiago. It is 50 miles 'as the crow flies' but 100 miles long due to the tortuous mountain passes and valleys. There were very large estates, managed by rich landowners much the same as in feudal days. The soil was rich and agricultural production and dairy farming were extensive. As the South American seasons are the reverse of those in North America, Chile had a great business exporting fruits and vegetables to New York City, U.S.A. during our winter.
Other very important exports were copper and nitrate from mining operations. Chile's Mount Aconcagua rises more than 23,000 feet. Germans and Swiss settled in these mountains which reminded them of home. There was one active volcano, Calbuco, at that time. Mr. Showalter mentioned that there is vast hydroelectric potential in the mountains.
Santiago was also a very prosperous city, and in contrast, is located in a wide valley with only a 900-foot high hill-platform rising in the center. In 1929, Chile was a democracy with a president, Chamber of Deputies and a Senate. In Santiago, even the poor could afford to buy flowers!
Between these two magazine articles which cover most of South America, I have come to appreciate a continent of which I know very little. One of my Spanish professors came from Columbia. She loved the culture but didn't want to go back due to the 'druglords.' of the 21st century. Perhaps, in time, governments so affected will wise up and learn that the world would love to come visit their beautiful, unique countries if we feel safe!
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